Milwaukee gets serious about cordless drill power

Apparently, racing pit crews need cordless drills with A LOT of power. And it looks like Milwaukee was happy to oblige as is shown in this funny racing pit stop commercial.

My only question is, “Where do I get one?”

www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzoFqumBCvY

The real truth about tools and their uses.

With the help of almost the entire DIY population here are the seldom revealed, but well know real uses of our common DIY tools. Enjoy!

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER

Normally used to stab a hole in oil cans thus splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used to strip out Phillips screws, while blistering your palm.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER

A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws, and butchering or slotting your palms.

PLIERS

Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

SIDE CUTTERS

Most often used to cut electrical wires resulting in a flash of light, followed by smoke and a breaker being tripped.

VISE-GRIPS

Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

CHISEL

The best tool to create a huge splinter of wood where you only wanted to remove a bit.

HAMMER

Originally employed as a weapon of war. Nowadays the hammer is often used to bend nails, flatten fingers and sometimes destroy anything close to what we are trying to hit.

UTILITY KNIFE

Used to slice through the contents of cardboard packages delivered to your front door; such as seats, clothes, liquids in plastic bottles, books, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Also useful in sharpening pencils from 6″ down to 2″ in a matter of seconds.

PRY BAR

Most effective in destroying the wooden trim that you are trying to remove, or putting a hole in the drywall as you try to remove that wooden trim. Also a great to crumple that metal clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER

Simply a tool used to make hoses too short.

THE NAIL SET

By far the best tool for setting nails and splitting trim at the same time.

HACKSAW

One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle… It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

SKILL SAW

A portable cutting tool used to cut studs too short, make incomprehensible miter cuts, and make weaving cuts down the length of a sheet of plywood.

RECIPROCATING SAW

The perfect power tool for breaking blades as soon as you pull the trigger.

BELT SANDER

An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

THE 1/2″ DRILL with two handles

First off, go ahead and remove that side handle. Now proceed with breaking your wrist. Told you so.

JIG SAW

The best power tool for cutting weavy lines on some bizarre angle.

TABLE SAW

A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity, as well as shortening digits.

PALM SANDER

Excellent for sanding the little scratches out of that table top, but resulting in burning through the veneer.

THE COMPOUND MITER SAW

Yes, you guessed it, for cutting those compound miters on crown molding that are always just a bit to short.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK

Used for lifting your car of the ground, but not keeping it there. Also used to test the strength of parts not made for lifting you car off the ground.

DRILL PRESS

A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching whatever you’re drilling out of your hands, so that it smacks you in the chest, flings your beer across the room, and ultimately dents the freshly-painted project you had carefully set in the corner.

WIRE WHEEL

Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ‘Oh sh –’

OXYACETYLENE TORCH

Used almost exclusively for lighting almost anything in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.

BAND SAW

A large stationary power saw primarily used to cut most types of material into smaller pieces that fit more easily into the trash can, due to cutting on the wrong side of the line.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST

A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

THE SON of a B****’ TOOL

The closest tool you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ‘Son of a B****’ at the top of your lungs, just after having used any of the above. It usually turns out to be the next tool you’ll need right after you let it fly.

The Do-it-Yourself Electrical Guide

I know, from your inquiries, that many of you have minor electrical repairs you’d like to do in your home or shop, so I thought that I’d share these great diagrams of how to wire switches and outlets.

Single Wire Switch Diagram

Two Wire Switch Diagram

Single Wire Outlet Diagram

From The Complete Guide to Wiring

Two Wire Outlet Diagram

From The Complete Guide to Wiring

The above diagrams and many others are available in ““The Complete Guide to Wiring”.

Great Deals on Electrical Tools and Testers

This is a collection of articles about the greatest tool box I’ve ever owned, the Stanley Workforce Tool Box/Organizer.

If you’ve been following along over the past year, then you’re familiar with my quest for the best DIY toolbox. And during this journey, the best tool box was found, lost, replaced, re-replaced with a different box, replaced again, and then finally returned home to once again to take it’s place as the best tool box.

To make it easier for you to find the exact information you’re looking for, I’ve laid out the story of the Stanley tool boxes in four sections. You can choose to either read this in its entirety or simply click on the specific article title listed in the Table of Contents below.

• The original article: “Quest for the Best” is about the original Stanley’s Workforce tool box organizer.
• The second: “Quest for the Best Part II” is about Stanley’s changes to the box, it being discontinued, and then it being replaced with something totally different.
• The third: “Sighted and Captured” is about the three replacements boxes I offered as a substitute for the discontinued original Stanley tool boxes.
• The Bottom Line is the latest news on the re-release of the original Stanley Workforce Tool Box/Organizer.

Once gain thanks for your input and patience throughout.

And a big thanks to Stanley for continuing to provide us with great DIY tools.

Tool Boxes, Quest for the Best.

Here’s the problem. We all have a tool box or two around the house, right? But no matter which cool tool box we buy, it only ends up as a pile of tools in a box. You know, totally disorganized, heavy, taking up too much space and you can’t see what’s at the bottom of the pile. Well, a cardboard box could do just as well.

You may even own one of these popular tool box styles.

Even if you have a multi-drawer tool box that’s well organized, it’s too big and heavy to lug around. Anyway, the fact remains that for the majority of do it yourself projects you only need the essential tools, not every tool you own.

I’ll bet, like me, you hardly ever take your tool box to your project, you just try taking the tools you think you’ll need. Inevitably, you end up running back and forth. What a waste of time!

Here’s the simple solution that will make it easier to; carry your tools to your project, find your tools, and save space and money. I know, sounds like a pie-in-the-sky dream right?

It’s not. And I’m going to reveal to you an amazing tool box you’ll love forever.

So here we go.

One day I was strolling through my local home center looking for a divided box to store my fasteners when I spotted a multi-section plastic organizer.

It was different from others I’d seen before. It was made of heavy duty plastic, had adjustable sections, a locking clear lid, a good strong handle and the lid closed tight against the dividers so nothing can not jump from one section to another — even if dropped.

This tool box is only 18″ W x 12.5″ D x 3″ H, which makes it’s easy to store just about anywhere.

Sensing I found buried treasure, I immediately grabbed the case and started playing with it right then and there on the floor. You may laugh, but hey, I’m a tool guy! So, I bought it and headed home.

When I got home I started thinking, “Hey, I wonder if my hand tools will fit in this case?”

So I got the hand tools I use most often (the same ones in the (Essential Hand Tools PDF) plus a few others, and began arranging them in the case.

I was totally amazed, everything fit (even the extra tools I carry)!

This tool box makes it so easy to actually carry your tools to your project and quickly find the tools you need.

And get this, they’re even stackable! I can’t begin to tell you how much space you’ll save.

But the big bonus is the incredibly low price. This tool box costs only $10 bucks! What an amazing deal.

I can’t imagine how much I would have saved if I’d only found this tool box earlier. I’ll bet I’ve spent hundreds of dollars on tool boxes over the years and none of them have been as good as this one.

Take my advise, the next time you’re at Home Depot, go to the tool organizing isle (generally located next to the power tool section) and buy the Stanley Workforce compartment organizer. You won’t be disappointed.

By the way, I went back and bought two more of these incredibly useful tool boxes, one for my fasteners and a second for my electrical gear.

It’s amazing how much less space these three new tool boxes take up versus just one of my old tool boxes.

Just one more do-it-yourself solution to help you succeed with speed!

Important Update.
The Work Force 26 has been replaced with the Stanley 25 Compartment Organizer. It’s the same exact box, only now branded with the Stanley name. See below photo.

Product Information:
Description from Home Depot: Workforce 25 Adjustable Deep Compartment Small Parts Organizer. Built-In Handle With 2 Locking Tabs And Lid Lock So Parts Stay In Place. Ideal Tool And Small Parts Storage And Organizer For Carpenters, Mechanics, Handyman, Toys And Hobbies.

• Stanley 25 Adjustable Deep Compartment Storage Organizer 199-Gray/Yellow
• 25 Deep Adjustable Compartments
• 3 Locking Mechanisms To Prevent Spills
• Removable dividers allow customization
• Extra wide, built-in handle designed for gloved hands
• Dimensions: 18–1/8 x 13–3/16 x 3–7/8 inches
• MFG Brand Name : Stanley
• MFG Model # : 14005
• MFG Part # : 14005
• SKU: 542047
• UPC: 076174932737
• Price: $9.98 (+ shipping)
• Available from Home Depot.

I recommend calling ahead to make sure they have this in stock (they sell very quickly). If not, you can have them order it for you.

Update: 03/10/09

Stanley has discontinued this tool box and it is no longer available at Home Depot.

Home Depot has assigned the SKU# from this old box to a new Stanley box. IT IS NOT THE SAME AS THE OLD BOX, so beware.

I’m currently investigating a new, available, tool box and will post my finding soon.

Thank you for your understanding and patience.

Update: 03/26/09

Good news! After weeks of searching, I believe I have found a replacement tool/parts box. In fact, I found a set of three different size boxes (small, medium and large). I have ordered the boxes and will be testing them shortly.

Update: 04/04/09

I have finally received, and am currently testing three new tool boxes, similar to the Stanley. They look and work great so far.

Quest for the Best Part II

The quest for the best tool box continues. But with a happy ending.

If you’ve visited the site before, you may have read my article “Tool Boxes, Quest for the Best” about a great DIY tool box and it’s untimely demise.

If not, here’s the scoop.

I had been using this great Workforce 26 tool box for a long time,
and started recommending it to friends and family as well as all my readers and clients. Then, out of nowhere, I began receiving emails that no one could find or buy these tool boxes anywhere.

Sure enough, I went to Home Depot’s website and attempted to order the Stanley tool box. When I got to the checkout portion of the process, a pop-up message said, “this Stanley tool box is no longer available”.

I contacted Stanley directly and was told,

“Unfortunately, this item has been discontinued and is no longer available.”

I wrote Stanley back and asked if the tool box was going to be replaced with a new item and their response was,

“There are comparable items on our website, please look under organizers.”

As I had already reviewed their website for available products and found none, this was of no help.

So I went to Home Depot (the only vendor that sold the Workforce 26 and attempted to locate the tool box. And sure enough, the plastic Workforce 26 organizers were no longer available—and there was no replacement.

The Search Continues

Over the next few weeks, I kept searching for a replacement box online and whenever I was at Home Depot. Then one lucky day, a new tool box showed up on the shelves.

As it turns out, this new tool box, from Stanley, was the same design as the Workforce 26 tool box. The only real difference was the black color and a slight change in size (the new box was larger).

Compared Dimensions:

Original Workforce 26: 18″ W x 12.5″ D x 3″ H

New Stanley: 18–1/8″ W x 13–3/16″ D x 3–7/8″ H

The other (and much bigger) problem was that even though this “new” box wasn’t exactly the same, Home Depot gave it the same SKU (product ID number) as the old tool box. So, even if you wanted to track down any of the remaining older boxes, you couldn’t because they both have the same SKU number. Genius!

OK, stay with me on this because what happened next was unbelievable. Stanley discontinued the new box even before they stocked the shelves!

So the “quest for the best continued once again.”

Not The Same Tool Box

So once again I returned to Home Depot. I wanted to see if I could find any of the old Stanley tool boxes they might have left in stock. When I inquired at the counter I was told they had plenty. Plenty?

Well they did have lots of boxes, but it wasn’t the same tool box!

This new organizer has fixed center compartments, making it unsuitable as a tool box or as a truly customizable parts organizer.

Dead end.

So, the mission for the last six weeks or so has been to find a suitable replacement for the original Workforce 26 tool box/organizer, and great news, I’ve succeeded! You can find my full recommendation and a direct link to order your DIY tool box or organizers here at DIY Best Tool Boxes

If you have a minute, please let me know what questions, problems or suggestions you might have, as well as your DIY successes.

Continuing to help you succeed with speed.

New DIY Tool Box Sighted and Captured

After months of searching, the hunt is for the best tool box is over.

After an exhaustive search and thorough testing here are the tool box organizers I’ve found to replace the Stanley Workforce tool boxes.
These new toolbox/organizers come in three sizes to accommodate all your storage needs.

They’re made of heavy duty plastic, have adjustable sections for easy customizing, a clear lid to see all your tools or parts, a good strong, wide handle, and the lid closes tight against the dividers so nothing can not jump from one section to another–even if dropped.

And, they’re stackable, so you save tons of space.

Large Tool Box / Organizer

This large tool box will easily hold all the hand tools you use most often, plus a few others. Now it’ll be easy to carry your tools to your project and quickly find the tools you need.

20″ W x 12–5/8″ D x 2–5/8″ H // Cost: $22.99 each Order Here

Here are the same tools from The Absolute Essential Tools Every Do-It-Yourselfer Must Own PDF laid out here, plus a few more.

Check out the PDF for a full list of the essential tools every DIY’er should own.

Now, here’s all those tools neatly stored and ready for easy transport.

It’s just amazing how many tools can be stored and easily accessed from one tool box.

You can stack three of these boxes in the same space as one regular tool box. Definitely one of the best do-it-yourself tool box/organizers you’ll find, buy, and happily use.

Medium Tool Box / Parts Organizer

The medium organizer is great for holding fasteners, electrical gear, technician tools, or whatever you need to keep sorted and transport securely. Great size!

Note: All the yellow dividers are removable.

15–1/2″ W x 11–5/8″ D x 2–1/2″ H // Cost: $17.99 each Order Here

Small Tool Box / Parts Organizer

I use this smaller organizer to hold my stainless fasteners, and other specialty items. Perfect fit!
Note: 9 total compartments-1 full, 2 lg, 2 md, 4 sm.
12–7/8″ W x 9–3/8″ D x 2″ H // Cost: $9.99 each Order Here

You can order your DIY tool box organizers through this Direct Link

And Yes, I did talk to the manufacturer and they reassured me that these boxes will not be discontinued anytime soon. So get organized and you too will succeed with speed.

Update: 05/05/09

The new DIY Best Tool Box and Organizers have been tested and are ready for your approval and purchase at DIY Best Tool Boxes. Thank you once again for your patience.

Update: 09/20/09

Stanley has been in contact in the last couple of months and told me that the Workforce toolbox/organizer with be re-released in October of this year. I’ll let you all know when and where just a soon as Stanley let me know. Hang in there, and thanks for your patience.

THE BOTTOM LINE 10/21/09

Great news! I have just been advised, by the Stanley product manager, that the original Workforce tool box/organizers (14006) have been re-released and will be available at Target stores to start. Stanley promised to advise me of other locations that the box will be available at ASAP.

Update 5/20/10

I have been informed by many of my readers that they have been unable to find these boxes at Target, except at a couple of Super Targets. I have searched the cities around where I live and haven’t found any either. I contacted Stanley and Target again and they are of little help. So, I guess we’re out of luck again. Maybe if Stanley gets enough request for this box they might “really” bring it back, but don’t hold your breath.

Note that the boxes you see on Lowes and Home Depots site are not the original boxes. They are the new ones with the fixed center section.

For more details about the newly released Stanley DIY Collection 14006 Tool Box/Organizer, read this review sent in by one of my readers.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Store: Great Deals on Replacement Saw Blades

After months of searching, the hunt is for the best tool box is over.

You can read about the whole story in my Tool Boxes, Quest for the Best and Quest for the Best Tool Box Part II.

But here’s what you’ve been waiting for, The Best DIY Tool Box Organizers!

These new toolbox/organizers come in three sizes to accommodate all your storage needs.

They’re made of heavy duty plastic, have adjustable sections for easy customizing, a clear lid to see all your tools or parts, a good strong, wide handle, and the lid closes tight against the dividers so nothing can not jump from one section to another—even if dropped.

And, they’re stackable, so you save tons of space.

Large Tool Box / Organizer

This large tool box will easily hold all the hand tools you use most often, plus a few others. Now it’ll be easy to carry your tools to your project and quickly find the tools you need.

20″ W x 12–5/8″ D x 2–5/8″ H // Cost: $22.99 each Order Here

Here are the same tools from The Absolute Essential Tools Every Do-It-Yourselfer Must Own PDF laid out here, plus a few more.

Download your free DIY Essential Tools PDF for a full list of the essential tools every DIY’er should own.

Now, here’s all those tools neatly stored and ready for easy transport.

It’s just amazing how many tools can be stored and easily accessed from one tool box.

You can stack three of these boxes in the same space as one regular tool box. Definitely one of the best do-it-yourself tool box/organizers you’ll find, buy, and happily use.

Medium Tool Box / Parts Organizer

The medium organizer is great for holding fasteners, electrical gear, technician tools, or whatever you need to keep sorted and transport securely. Great size!

Note: All the yellow dividers are removable.

15–1/2″ W x 11–5/8″ D x 2–1/2″ H // Cost: $17.99 each Order Here

Small Tool Box / Parts Organizer

I use this smaller organizer to hold my stainless fasteners, and other specialty items. Perfect fit!
Note: 9 total compartments-1 full, 2 lg, 2 md, 4 sm.
12–7/8″ W x 9–3/8″ D x 2″ H // Cost: $9.99 each Order Here

You can order your DIY tool box organizers through this Direct Link. When you reach the site just type in “parts organizers” in the search bar and there you go.

And Yes, I did talk to the manufacturer and they reassured me that these boxes will not be discontinued anytime soon. So get organized and you too will succeed with speed.

10/21/09 UPDATE

If you are interested in the original Stanley Workforce tool box/organizer then here is the newest info.
I have just been advised, by the Stanley product manager, that the original Workforce tool box/organizers (14006) have been re-released and will be available at Target stores to start. Stanley promised to advise me of other locations that the box will be available at ASAP.
Note that the boxes you see on Lowes and Home Depots site are not the original boxes. They are the new ones with the fixed center section.
Thanks for your patience and please let me know if you have any questions.

The quest for the best tool box continues. But with a happy ending.

If you’ve visited the site before, you may have read my article “Tool Boxes, Quest for the Best” about a great DIY tool box and it’s untimely demise.

If not, here’s the scoop.

I had been using this great Workforce 26 tool box for a long time,
and started recommending it to friends and family as well as all my readers and clients. Then, out of nowhere, I began receiving emails that no one could find or buy these tool boxes anywhere.

Sure enough, I went to Home Depot’s website and attempted to order the Stanley tool box. When I got to the checkout portion of the process, a pop-up message said, “this Stanley tool box is no longer available”.

I contacted Stanley directly and was told,

“Unfortunately, this item has been discontinued and is no longer available.”

I wrote Stanley back and asked if the tool box was going to be replaced with a new item and their response was,

“There are comparable items on our website, please look under organizers.”

As I had already reviewed their website for available products and found none, this was of no help.

So I went to Home Depot (the only vendor that sold the Workforce 26 and attempted to locate the tool box. And sure enough, the plastic Workforce 26 organizers were no longer available—and there was no replacement.

The Search Continued

Over the next few weeks, I kept searching for a replacement box online and whenever I was at Home Depot. Then one lucky day, a new tool box showed up on the shelves.

As it turns out, this new tool box, from Stanley, was the same design as the Workforce 26 tool box. The only real difference was the black color and a slight change in size (the new box was larger).

Compared Dimensions:

Original Workforce 26: 18″ W x 12.5″ D x 3″ H

New Stanley: 18–1/8″ W x 13–3/16″ D x 3–7/8″ H

The other (and much bigger) problem was that even though this “new” box wasn’t exactly the same, Home Depot gave it the same SKU (product ID number) as the old tool box. So, even if you wanted to track down any of the remaining older boxes, you couldn’t because they both have the same SKU number. Genius!

OK, stay with me on this because what happened next was unbelievable. Stanley discontinued the new box even before they stocked the shelves!
So the “quest for the best continued once again.”

Not The Same Tool Box

So once again I returned to Home Depot. I wanted to see if I could find any of the old Stanley tool boxes they might have left in stock. When I inquired at the counter I was told they had plenty. Plenty?

Well they did have lots of boxes, but it wasn’t the same tool box!

This new organizer has fixed center compartments, making it unsuitable as a tool box or as a truly customizable parts organizer.
Dead end.

So, the mission for the last six weeks or so has been to find a suitable replacement for the original Workforce 26 tool box/organizer, and

Great news, I’ve succeeded!
You can find my full recommendation and a direct link to order your DIY tool box or organizers here at New-DIY-Tool-Box-Sighted-and-Captured

If you have a minute, please let me know what questions, problems or suggestions you might have, as well as your DIY successes.

Continuing to help you succeed with speed.

Just a quick 9/20/09 UPDATE:
Stanley has been in contact in the last couple of months and told me that the Workforce toolbox/organizer with be re-released in October of this year. I’ll let you all know when and
where just a soon as Stanley let me know.
Hang in there, and thanks for your patience.

,

10/21/09 UPDATE

I have just been advised, by the Stanley product manager, that the original Workforce tool box/organizers (14006) have been re-released and will be available at Target stores to start. Stanley promised to advise me of other locations that the box will be available at ASAP.
Note that the boxes you see on Lowes and Home Depots site are not the original boxes. They are the new ones with the fixed center section.
Thanks for your patience and please let me know if you have any questions.

The Best DIY Home Improvement Books for You.

Sometimes when you’re planning, or working on a do-it-yourself home improvement project you find that you just need a bit of quality information on how things work in order to proceed–like electrical, plumbing, or basic construction.

So today, I’d like to help you do just that.

Below you’ll find three of the best do-it-yourself reference books on the market. I’ve been using these great DIY books since they were first published, and, I’m still using, loaning, and recommending them to friends today.
All three books are inexpensive, easy to understand, and are loaded with excellent photos and descriptions.

Whether you want to just learn the basics, or take on some advanced DIY projects, these are the best DIY books to own.

Anyway you look at it, having these DIY home improvement guides on hand will surely help you succeed.

And remember, for answers to your specific questions, just ask your
DIY Consultant.

“The Complete Guide to Wiring”

This fantastic DIY reference and learning guide and has over 700 easy to understand photographs and diagrams, making it an invaluable tool for the 
DIY’er.

It covers all the basics such as, how electricity works, how electrical circuits works, electrical terms, how a home’s electrical system is set up, electrical circuit breaker panels, wiring switches, outlets, GFIs, lights, and fans, as well as information on DIY electrical tools, safety, security systems, home theaters and surround-sound systems.

It also covers most types of wire, cables, and conduits. As well as many types of DIY electrical repairs such as, plugs, cords, light fixtures, ceiling fans, and much, much more.

I bought this book when it was first published, and it taught me all the DIY electrical basics when I first started out, and I’m sure 
it will do the same for you. Enjoy!

Learn More

“The Complete Guide to Plumbing”

This book is filled with so many excellent pictures, diagrams and explanations that you’ll probably never need to buy another DIY plumbing book again.

It explains not only how a plumbing system works, but breaks it down into the water supply system, and the waste/venting system. You’ll learn how to install basic plumbing, add new plumbing, make repairs, and even how to solder.

Plus, the how to install bathroom and kitchen sinks, all types of faucets, toilets, garbage disposals, dishwashers, water heaters, bath tubs, showers, washing machines, and more. As well, it covers the how to of DIY plumbing repairs, such as– toilets, sprayers, aerators, leaks, drains, and so much more.

It also covers the how to of working with Pex, piping (cross-linked polyethylene) the bendable water supply tubing that’s taking over a major portion of the DIY market. As well as working with PVC pipe, copper pipe, outdoor flexible pipe, iron pipe, and most plumbing fittings.

From basic repairs to advanced renovations, this is the best 
plumbing book I’ve ever found for the DIY homeowner.

Learn More

“Building and Finishing Walls and Ceilings”

This must be the most comprehensive DIY book on building and finishing 
walls and ceilings I’ve ever seen.

It takes you step by step on how to build walls, ceilings and soffits. It also teaches you how to frame with wood and steel. There’s a section on how to build glass block walls, as well as sound proofing walls, and ceilings. Plus a section on building curved walls.

The drywall section includes drywall basics, hanging drywall, drywall finishing, and drywall repairs. This includes taping, mudding 
and finishing techniques.
There’s also a section on painting which includes, painting tools, techniques (such as washes and faux), and wallpapering.

If that’s not enough, there’s a section on door and window trim, wainscoting, crown molding, panelling, suspended ceilings, ceiling tiles, and more.

This book has tons of full-color photos, and easy to understand step by step instructions that will ensure you succeed with speed

Learn More

These three do-it-yourself reference books will prove to be invaluable resources for many years to come. They also make great DIY gifts too.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY Consultant.

Effective do-it-yourself tips for choosing and drying firewood.

Many people burn wood as a source of heat for their homes. Many more of you may be considering doing the same, so I’d like to talk about two common problems you may be faced with in doing so.

One problem is how to choose the best firewood.

Many people buy the cheapest wood available, and that’s understandable in these economic times. But in doing so, you may be sending your hard earned cash up the chimney in a puff of smoke.

The other problem is how to properly store and dry (also known as “seasoning”) firewood.

The solutions to those problems in just a minute, but first a bit about how airtight wood stoves extract heat from wood and the problems associated with burning green unseasoned firewood.

How Does A Wood Stove Work

How does a wood stove extract heat from firewood?

The primary source of heat from a wood stove is from the combustion of the wood. The secondary source of heat is from the combustion of the gasified resins and unburned wood particles that result from the primary fire. This all occurs efficiently, providing you’re using dry seasoned firewood.

When you use unseasoned, wet wood in your stove, the water contained in the wood heats up and turns to steam. Unseasoned wood can use ½ of the heat it produces just to boil off the moisture and keep the fire burning. This production of steam will cut your heat output by up to 50%. Burning unseasoned wood results in cool water-laden smoke, filled with unburned particles and exhaust gases. All bad.

You see, this wet, heavy, high-density smoke travels very slowly up the chimney, where it cools even further, condensing onto the inside walls of the chimney and causing excessive creosote formation. Also bad.

Therefore, unseasoned wood produces less heat, creates more creosote, and increases the likelihood of a chimney fire.

Solution: to get the most energy efficient heat for your money and efforts, start by using high density dry seasoned firewood. Doing so is like upgrading your clothes dryer to a high efficiency model, it uses less gas or electricity to produce the same heat.

How To Choose The Best Firewood

There are different species of wood available in different parts of the country, and every species of wood has a different density (weight) and BTU output.

Why is this important?

Whether you are buying wood or cutting your own, you’ll want to get the most for you money or efforts. Right?

This chart shows the density and BTU output for the various species of woods, to help you do just that.

Remember you’ll get the best results burning properly seasoned wood with the highest density. Obviously there are more species of wood out there, but this covers some of the most common.

The following chart shows various woods by BTU content (1 MBTU = one million BTU’s)

Weight and Heat content figures are based on seasoned wood at 20% moisture content. One cord of wood is measured as 4′ x 4′ x 8′ = 128 cubic feet.

Woods by BTU content
(1 MBTU = one million BTU’s)

Species	Pounds/Cord	MBTU
Alder	3,965	25.8
Apple	6,150	39.8
Ash	5,320	29.9
Birch	4,650	30.4
Cedar	2,569	18.3
Douglas Fir	4,350	27.1
Elm	4,660	32.4
Hemlock	4,272	23.3
Hickory	5,748	36.1
Maple	4,386	28
Oak	5,625	36
Pine	3,339	21.9

Now that you have some background information on how to choose the best firewood to heat your home, the question remains, how best to season the firewood?

Do-it-Yourself Tips For Storing and Seasoning Your Firewood

Wood Preparation

Green wood contains up to 80% moisture by weight, and doesn’t always season properly due to improper storage. Also, seasoned wood will not always stay that way if improperly stored. That being said, to properly season your firewood, remove the bark, when possible, as this will speed up the drying/seasoning process and reduces the woods ability to re-absorb moisture.

Note: Pitchy woods, such as Douglas Fir, needs more time to season before it is dry enough to burn properly.

Firewood Drying Time

The drying process takes anywhere from 9 to 12 months depending upon the species of wood, the amount of airflow, and the humidity and temperature of the storage area. As moisture evaporates from the wood, air circulation is necessary to carry it away.

What Seasoned (Dried) Firewood Looks Like.
Here’s an example of a piece of properly seasoned Douglas Fir.

No bark, no mold, just dry and ready to burn.

Where To Store Firewood

Stack your firewood in a dry covered area with plenty of air circulation, meaning plenty of circulation under the wood as well as all around the sides and top. The best storage option is a woodshed with open slat walls, woodshed which allows air to circulate, and it’s best that it has an overhanging roof to keep the rain off the wood.

Note: Dry, seasoned wood stacked out in the rain will soak up enough water to revert to its original moisture content. When this happens the wood needs to be reseasoned until it is once again dry enough for use. This can take weeks, perhaps months.

Using A Tarp To Protect Firewood

If you don’t have a woodshed and will be storing your firewood under a tarp then you should be aware that a tarp creates a micro-environment. The evaporated moisture from the wood condenses on the underside of the tarp and drips back down on the wood and is reabsorbed.

The solution is to  take a few pieces of wood and create a peak in the tarp at the top of your stack so the water will run to the tarp edges, instead of just dripping back onto the wood.

Be sure to fasten down the edges far enough away from the wood to keep the water away, but also tie the tarp edges down in a manner that allows air to flow under and around the tarp.

There’s a ton of information out there about burning wood for home heating, but these important basics can help you can make informed energy efficient choices concerning your home heating.

Important things to Remember

• Choose the higher density (heavier) woods.
• Cut, stack, store and season your firewood properly.
• And most of all, have your chimney cleaned every year!
• Follow these simple tips you will certainly succeed with speed.

A Special Note of Thanks.

I’d like to thank my good friend and neighbor Mike for giving me all the great information on firewood for home heating. Mike has been using wood for home heating for decades and really knows his stuff. He’s currently helping me plan my move to wood heat.

Thanks again Mike, for all the great tips and information.
You’re the best.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Firewood storage racks

Extending the life of your gas and electric water heater with two simple do-it-yourself maintenance tips.

DIY Water Heater Maintenance Tips

Are you hearing funny noises coming from your water heater? Does it seem like your hot water supply is less? Have you noticed that your gas or electric bill has increased?

Well, your water heater could be the culprit.

Of all the appliances in your home it seems the water heater is ignored most. That is, until it stops working.

Today I’m going to give you two simple do-it-yourself tips that can help extend the life of your water heater and save you some money by reducing energy consumption.

What You Need To Know

First off, it’s important to know that most water contains minerals and sediment. These minerals and sediment travel throughout your water system and usually end up trapped in your faucet aerator, washing machine hose screens, water filters and your water heater.

I’m sure you’ve probably had a faucet that didn’t flow well or the water started to shoot out to the side. And, if you removed the aerator you would find it was full of sediment.

The same thing happens inside your water heater.

Gas Water Heaters

Corrosion, scale, and sediment are the things that cut down the life of your water heater. As the sediment builds up on the bottom of your gas water heater it can increase the amount of time it takes to heat the water, thus using more energy and costing you more money.

Electric Water Heaters

Inside an electric water heater scale builds up on the electrodes that heat the water, also increasing energy consumption. The reason scale builds up on the electrodes is because the hotter the water becomes, the more scale falls out of solution and clings to the electrodes. So if your water heater temperature is set above 120 degrees, there will likely be more scale on the electrodes and more corrosion of the tank.

There is a sacrificial anode inside the tank. It’s purpose is to allow the acid in the water to eat away at it, and not the water heater tank. But, once again, if your water tank temperature is set higher than 120 degrees, the hotter, more acidic, water will eat up that anode much quicker.

And here’s the thing: You won’t even know that the sacrificial anode is gone until the acid/corrosion either eats a hole in the tank or the electrodes stop working. Also, and most obvious, setting your water heater to above 120 degrees is of no benefit to you—it only uses more energy, costing you more money.

Note, having soft water is not necessarily a plus because the softer the water the more corrosion and the harder the water the more scale. So what’s the solution?

Your Two Do-it-Yourself Water Heater Tips

1. Lower Water Heater Temperature

One, lower the temperature on your water heater to 120 or below. Hey, mine’s at 110 and there are no complaints from the ladies in my house.

Lowering the temperature on a gas water heater is relatively easy. Just turn the dial to the desired temperature and that’s it.

An electric water heater is quite different. Depending on the tank size, you may have one or two heating elements. These will most likely be located behind small panels on the outside of the water heater. That’s where the temperature adjustments are located.

BEFORE you attempt to adjust the temperature of your electric water heater you must turn off the electricity to the water heater. Next, consult your owners manual to the proper procedure for adjusting the temperature.

If you don’t have one, here is where you can find owner’s manuals.

Next, locate and remove the access panel/s. After the panel is removed you may have to move aside a bit of insulation to see the temperature dial. The dial usually has a place to put a small slotted screwdriver in the middle to adjust/turn the pointer to the desired temperature.

Once you have set the temperature replace the insulation and panel and you’re done.

2. Drain and Flush Water Heater Tank

It’s recommended you drain and flush your tank at least once a year. This helps remove debris and sediment from the tank.

Most water heaters have a plastic drain valve located at the bottom of the tank.

Connect a garden hose to the drain valve. Be Careful, as these valves typically are not of the best quality and can easily break.

Once you have the hose attached to the drain valve Turn off the electricity to the water heater (at the circuit breaker) or turn the gas off to your water heater.

Next, turn off the cold water supply to the water heater. Usually located at the top of the water heater.

Open the drain valve slowly to check for leaks where the hose connects to the valve. If all is well open the valve and let the water drain.

Once the tank is empty, open the cold water supply on the top of the tank to flush any remaining sediment out. Let the water run for about 1 minute, then turn off the cold water supply.

Once the tank is empty Close the pressure relief valve. Then Close the drain valve and disconnect the hose. Have a towel ready for any mishaps.

Turn the cold water supply back on. Open a faucet in the kitchen or bathroom to relieve the air being flushed from the tank and let it fill.

Once the tank is filled turn off the open faucet and turn on the electricity to your water heater.

For gas water heaters be sure to follow the directions in your manual for turning the gas back on to your water heater.

That’s it. You now have a cleaner more efficient water heater, and you did it yourself.

By following these two easy do-it-yourself water heater maintenance tips you can save energy, money and add more life to your water heater.

One last DIY Tip: To save even more money, insulate your water heater.

Just one more useful solution to help you succeed with speed.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

If you are interested in making the switch to a Tankless Water Heater, check below.

Tankless Water Heaters

The essential list of do-it-yourself, home improvement supplies you should never be without.

Over the years I noticed that there were certain do-it-yourself supplies I was continually buying. You know; tape, glue, caulking and many others. Having these DIY supplies on-hand has saved me so much time and money that I decided to assemble a list of those indispensable and most used supplies you should have on-hand before taking on your next DIY project. I’ve also included photos of each for easier reference.

Since these supplies are used so often and are quite inexpensive, you’ll be glad to have them on hand. Also, not having to run to the store every time you need one of these supplies will save you time, money and frustration.

So here we go.

Do-it-Yourself Supplies

Cable Ties

This first one has saved me many times. Cable ties are the totally indispensable fastener. You’ll just be amazed of how many uses there are for these handy items. They come in many different sizes and colors and you can tie almost anything together with these. I have used them for hinges, clamps and even to temporarily hold up plumbing pipes. Definitely a 1001 uses and only about $12 for 650 pieces.

Wood Glue

First choice of glue is yellow carpenters wood glue.  This is a great multi-purpose glue used for joining all types wood. Used extensively in cabinet making and Popsicle stick houses.

Liquid Nails

Liquid Nails is great to have for heavy duty jobs, like laminating wood for a beam, installing sub-floors and extra holding power for outdoor jobs.  Remember, this adhesive is stronger than the wood it holds together, so once it’s glued, getting it apart will be quite improbable.

Liquid Nails also comes in small tubes and in clear as well.

There are many other types of liquid nails for masonry, mirrors, tub surrounds and more. Great for small projects as well.

Latex Caulk

Caulking is essential for giving projects a finished look.  The most popular is Latex painter caulk, used for filling the gaps in moldings, nail holes, sealing up doors and windows and many others. Latex caulking comes in different colors and is paintable.

Don’t forget the caulking-gun (one of many essential DIY tools you should own).

Silicone Caulk

Silicone caulk is great for kitchens, baths, doors and windows. It’s waterproof and comes in colors as well as clear.

Patching Plaster

Patching Plaster  is another must. Great for filling holes in drywall, trim and various finish jobs around the house. It’s easy to apply and can be sanded.

Masking Tape

Masking tape comes in different widths and colors.  The colors represent different applications, such as green is used for very fine line and curve masking. Blue works well for most applications.

Double Back Tape

Double back tape is great for steadying pictures from moving side to side, posting temporary art, holding rugs down and so much more.

Duct Tape

Duct tape is number one on the list of must haves. You know what they say, “duct tape and baling wire”, it’ll hold just about any thing together. There are many different brands, grades and colors, so buy the correct type for the job.

Teflon Tape

Teflon tape is applied to the threaded ends of pipes to improve the water tightness of a joint.  They also make teflon tape for gas pipes too.

Plumbers Tape

Plumbers tape is most often used for hanging pipes, giving them support, but this product is great for so many other uses because it is so pliable.

Drill Bit Gauge

A drill bit gauge is the easiest way to match the size bit you need to a particular screw or bolt.

Carpenter Pencils

A must have for any DIY project.

Coat Hanger

You laugh, but a piece of a coat hanger is great to have in your tool box. It can be used to hold things in place, reach for something you dropped, hang something you want to paint and a million other DIY uses. I’ve had a piece of coat hanger in my tool box for over 30 years–well not the same one.

Walnut Pick

These are great for cleaning out screw heads filled with paint or cleaning out any small area.

Lubricants

Tip, WD-40 is a solvent not a lubricant.
So use a teflon or silicone spray to lubricate.

Electrical Supplies

It nice to have various electrical supplies and connectors available for you home, car and others projects.  I would recommend picking up an assortment of connectors like this.

Many of these kits come with a wire-stripper and a crimping tool.

If you’re ever in a pinch you’ll be happy to have these DIY Essential Fasteners on hand.

Just one more way you can succeed with speed.

Removing wall anchors the quick and easy way.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=wM7Vp6lQ2fs

I understand the frustration you feel when you want remove something hanging on the wall (book shelf, picture, towel rack, etc.) only to find out that a wall anchor needs removed too.

And, as you probably know, trying to remove that little wall anchor by pulling it out usually leaves a really big hole!

Now your small do-it-yourself project has turned into a large hole patching project too.

You see, most wall anchors are plastic and have barbs that hold them in place. These work quite well but tend to leave big holes in the wall if you try to pull them out.

Well, I have a great little tip for you that will help you easily remove that wall anchor while minimizing the hole to patch.

So here we go.

How to Remove Wall Anchors

Our goal is to cut the face of the anchor off and then push the remaining part of the anchor through the wall.

1. Take a new utility blade and place it flat against the wall just above the anchor face. * BE CAREFUL. Using a utility blade like this can lead to injury. I recommend wearing gloves.
2. Next, slide the blade slowly and carefully behind the face of the anchor.
3. Alternate downward pressure, left to right, on the blade, slowly cutting the anchor face off.
4. Once the anchor face has been cut off, gently push the remaining part of the anchor (that is left inside the hole) into the wall. A small Phillips head screwdriver works well.

Now you have just have a small hole to patch.

Removable Wall Anchors

There is a newer type of wall anchor available to do-it-yourself’ers called EZ Anchor.

These wall anchors come in a variety of sizes and screw directly into the wall.

This is a time-saving benefit for both installing and removing because when you need to remove the anchor, you can simply un-screw it from the wall and patch. You can pick up EZ Anchors at your local home center.

It’s that easy.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Here’s some excellent TV wall mounts.

For Sale: LCD/TV Wall Mounts

Helping a friend with a garage workshop insulation question.

I’d like to share a little story with you that involves my neighbor Mike who lives through the woods, right behind my house. He’s not your average retired guy as he always has some kind of do-it-yourself project going on. This time he was looking for an effective solution to insulate his garage workshop.

Just a little background on my friend Mike. He spent 30+ years working as a machinist for the Navy. And Mike wasn’t just any ole machinist, he worked on the nuclear propulsion systems on Submarines and Carriers. Mike’s also a rough and tumble Alaskan gold miner and can build or repair just about anything.

Well, not to long ago, Mike invites me over to talk with him about coming up with a solution for insulating his workshop doors. He says if we use the 1/4 of a brain we each have, we should be able to come up with a solution. Funny guy.

His metal garage workshop doors are a pair of 10 ft. wide x 14 ft. tall flat framed 2x4 doors with sheet metal cladding on the exterior.

The doors also bypass each other to open (clearance between them is only about 1/4 inch) making it difficult to apply standard insulation to the doors.

Well, after some discussion, I recommended using Prodex radiant barrier insulation on his shop doors. This is an excellent insulation material I’ve used on another garage door insulation project.

Since Prodex is only 1/4 in. thick, he simply cut each section of insulation a bit taller than the space between the 2x4’s. That way, the insulation could be stapled to the 2x4 framing as well as siliconed directly to the metal.

Prodex recommends creating an air space to increase the effectiveness of the product, but we didn’t have that option due to the extremely small clearance between the sliding doors. Having said that, an air space was naturally provided by the 50% corrugation of the metal cladding.

Notice that foil tape was applied on all insulation seams.

In the end, the shop doors easily open and look great too. Now, not only is Mike using less energy to heat and cool his workshop but the reflective qualities have improved his garage workshop lighting and created a more comfortable place to work.

So even if you’re a brilliant and resourceful guy like Mike, but still have a question about your project, just ask your personal DIY consultant, and I’ll find the answer to help you succeed with speed.

Here’s a link for more information on Prodex including installation instructions.

Workshop Plans

Quick Grout Line Cleaning Tip.

The easiest and fastest way to clean tile grout is by using a steam machine, such as the Euro Pro Shark Super Steamer. Just apply steam to the grout, use a toothbrush on any stubborn spots and wipe clean.

You can pick up a steamer for about $40 and they’re also a great way to clean windows, bathroom fixtures, appliances and so much more.

Another time saving tip to help you succeed with speed.

The Solution for Loose Screws.

Do you have a wood screw that’s not holding well? You know, the screws you keep having to tighten in a place where you can’t just use a larger screw.

Not to worry as I have the solution for you.

Here’s How To;

1. Remove the loose screw.
2. Drill the screw hole out to the same size as a golf tee.
3. Put a drop of carpenters glue in the hole.
4. Next, tap the golf tee in the hole and let the glue dry.
5. Cut off the excess tee sticking out. A hack saw blade works great.
6. Re-install a new screw.

Providing solutions to help you succeed with speed.

Choosing the best insulation material for your do-it-yourself garage insulation project.

As you know, one of the least energy efficient areas of our homes is the garage, specifically the garage door. Most garage doors are made of aluminum, steel or wood and are usually installed uninsulated. The typical double garage door is 7 ft. x 16 ft. That’s over 100 sq. ft. of uninsulated space. Whether you have a single or double car garage, your uninsulated garage door is allowing heat in during the summer and letting heat escape during the winter.

I’ll bet you’ve probably felt how hot your garage door gets in the summer and how cold it is in the winter. Well this is the sign that it’s time to correct the problem and start reducing your energy bills.

And if your water heater is in the garage, it’s efficiency is affected too. The colder it is in the garage the longer the water heater has to stay on to keep the water temperature constant — which means a higher energy bill.

Since there are several different insulating materials to choose from, it’s not surprising that this is one of the most often asked questions I receive;

“Which insulation material should I use to insulate my garage and water heater?”

Fortunately I have a simple and inexpensive answer as well as a couple of tips to help make your do-it-yourself insulation project a breeze.

So here we go.

Types of Insulation Materials

First let me explain the different kinds of insulation materials available to you.

Spray Foam Insulation

Two part spray foam is very effective but you’ll have to buy a kit (about $350 for a double garage door) or hire a professional to perform the work. That makes this material the most expensive choice.

Rigid Foam Insulation

Although Rigid foam is less expensive than spray foam, it’s also a bit less effective due to a lower the R-value–which leads me to what I believe is the best material choice for this do it yourself home insulation project.

Prodex Insulation

Prodex insulation, commonly known as a radiant barrier, is the DIYers best choice for these types of insulation projects because it’s inexpensive, easy to install, and very effective. It also has a built-in bonus I’ll tell you about later.

Prodex insulation is only 1/4 inch thick and made of a closed cell foam core covered on both sides with tear resistant foil. This amazing radiant barrier reflects 97% of the heat. It also offers an excellent R-value and is about half the cost of rigid insulation

For about $120 you can easily and simply insulate your garage door and water heater, and immediately begin saving energy.

Tools and Materials

Prodex is easy to install with these simple tools;

• Tape measure
• Straight edge (level)
• Utility knife
• Caulking gun
• 100% clear silicone caulk/adhesive
• Foil tape

Garage Door Insulation

Cut the insulation to size and apply it to each garage door section with silicone adhesive. Use foil tape to repair any tears or to cover seams.

You may have noticed the extra bonus I was talking about from the photos — the highly reflective quality of the insulation will instantly brighten your garage. Nice.

Insulating the Water Heater

Since you’re insulating your garage door, go ahead and insulate your water heater too. Remember, even if your water heater is in the house, you can save money by insulating the tank. Use the same radiant barrier insulation to insulate your water heater.

PLEASE be sure to read, understand and follow all safety precautions and procedures when working with, near, or around any gas or electric water heater, or for that matter any appliance. You can also refer to my Insulation Do’s and Don’ts article for more tips.

So, when you’re ready to undertake your do-it-yourself garage insulation project and you’re faced with multiple insulation materials to choose from, I highly recommend Prodex Insulation. It’s a great radiant barrier and can be easily purchased from Insulation4less.com. They’ll even deliver it to your (garage) door for about $107 + shipping (4 ft. x 50 ft. roll).

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Garage Door Openers

Simple Solutions to Reduce Your Electric Bill.

Everyone is looking for ways to save money but saving money implies you have actually have extra money to set aside. For many of us, that’s not the case.

Many of us are just looking for ways to cut costs, spend less money, and just make ends meet. So if you’re anything like me, finding ways to cut costs is a top priority.

One of the easiest ways to cut cost, is to use less energy. And here are a few energy saving tips for doing just that.

So here we go.

Insulate the Following

• Garage door
• Water heater
• Attic
• Water pipes
• Seal around doors and windows

All of these do it yourself projects will help you save money by using less energy.

And here’s a few others you’ve probably heard of too, but these are very simple, easy and inexpensive to implement.

One obvious energy saving technique, which many of us forget at times, is simply turning off lights when they’re not needed.

Outdoor Sensors and Timers

Consider using sensors or timers for outdoor night lights and garages. A motion light will save quite a bit of energy compared to leaving a porch light on all night and be less offensive to the neighborhood. Anyway, it is suppose to be dark at night.

By far, the fastest way to save energy and cut cost is to reduce the amount of power needed to operate the lighting in your home and/or business. The simplest way to accomplish this is to replace incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs.

These energy saving lights have come a long way in the past few years. They’re more efficient and come in almost any size and type you’ll need.

Compact Fluorescent

Compact fluorescent bulbs use less wattage (power) to provide the same amount of light as incandescent bulbs. So changing over just makes sense.

You see, an 18 watt compact fluorescent provides the same amount of light, about 1000 lumen’s, as a standard 60-watt incandescent bulb. So by changing just one bulb you’re using 65% less energy. Make sense now.

For commercial lighting applications that use T12 fluorescent’s, make the change to T8 bulbs. Check for “over lighting” (the number of lights needed to light up a particular area). Also adjust the timer settings on your outdoor lighting (e.g. buildings, landscaping and parking lots).

Check out this energy star site for more information on compact fluorescent’s and fixtures.

DIY’ism: Saving energy creates a better world today.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your Personal DIY Consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Learn More

DIY Replacement Light Fixtures

How to silence squeaky floors and steps in your home.

Are you going crazy because of a squeaky spot in the floor or in one of your stair steps? Have you run out of things to try or just don’t know where to begin?

Well here’s another simple do-it-yourself home improvement solution.

This Squeak No More Kit eliminates annoying squeaks quickly and easily.

You can pick up your [amazon ISBN=B0006IK8YE]Squeak No More Kit[/amazon] at Amazon and check out this great how to video demonstration on how to use the kit.

The solutions you need to succeed with speed.

Simple Solution for Sweating Toilet Tanks

Are you having a problem with the toilet tank sweating and dripping all over the floor? Well don’t feel alone as many people have this irritating problem.

First, the reason your toilet tank sweats is that the water entering the tank has a temperature of around 45 degrees and the room temperature is typically higher. So when the warmer room air comes in contact with the cooler toilet tank the air condenses, causing the tank to sweat and drip on the floor.

To resolve this problem you need to install an anti sweat valve.

The anti sweat valve takes a bit of hot water, from the hot water supply, and mixes it with the cold water supply to the toilet. This increases the temperature of the water in the tank just enough to stop the room air from condensing, thus solving the problem.

Anti sweat valves cost about $20–30 dollars and are easily installed. Watch this easy how-to video.

Do It Yourself Appliance Repair

Having a problem with your stove, refrigerator, washer or dryer? Can’t find the model year, manual or parts? Well here’s a great resource to help you succeed with speed and save money.

These great sites provide you with information like who makes the brand of appliance you own, what model and year it is, parts lists, manuals, users forums (place to ask questions), and much more.

Appliance Information Resources

• Appliance 411
• Appliance Aid

Simple DIY solution for removing moss from your roof.

If there’s moss, algae or lichen growing on your roof, that growth will shorten the life of your roof. Here’s a simple solution to alleviate the problem.

So here we go.

Mix up a solution of equal parts bleach and water in a garden sprayer. Spray the mixture on the affected areas of the roof. This will kill the moss, algae and lichen.

To greatly reduce these growths from returning, install zinc strips across your roof line. The zinc strips/shield typically comes in 50 foot lengths and run about $55 dollars.

When it rains, the zinc will mix with the rain to form a film of zinc carbonate that will coat the roof, reducing the likely return of these growths.

Here’s one place to get your zinc shield. And a great how-to install zinc strips video.

PS: Copper strips or copper ridge caps will do the same job. They’re just a bit more expensive.

One more do-it-yourself tip to help you succeed with speed.