DIY Water Heater Maintenance Tips

Are you hearing funny noises coming from your water heater? Does it seem like your hot water supply is less? Have you noticed that your gas or electric bill has increased?

Well, your water heater could be the culprit.

Of all the appliances in your home it seems the water heater is ignored most. That is, until it stops working.

Today I’m going to give you two simple do-it-yourself tips that can help extend the life of your water heater and save you some money by reducing energy consumption.

What You Need To Know

First off, it’s important to know that most water contains minerals and sediment. These minerals and sediment travel throughout your water system and usually end up trapped in your faucet aerator, washing machine hose screens, water filters and your water heater.

I’m sure you’ve probably had a faucet that didn’t flow well or the water started to shoot out to the side. And, if you removed the aerator you would find it was full of sediment.

The same thing happens inside your water heater.

Gas Water Heaters

Corrosion, scale, and sediment are the things that cut down the life of your water heater. As the sediment builds up on the bottom of your gas water heater it can increase the amount of time it takes to heat the water, thus using more energy and costing you more money.

Electric Water Heaters

Inside an electric water heater scale builds up on the electrodes that heat the water, also increasing energy consumption. The reason scale builds up on the electrodes is because the hotter the water becomes, the more scale falls out of solution and clings to the electrodes. So if your water heater temperature is set above 120 degrees, there will likely be more scale on the electrodes and more corrosion of the tank.

There is a sacrificial anode inside the tank. It’s purpose is to allow the acid in the water to eat away at it, and not the water heater tank. But, once again, if your water tank temperature is set higher than 120 degrees, the hotter, more acidic, water will eat up that anode much quicker.

And here’s the thing: You won’t even know that the sacrificial anode is gone until the acid/corrosion either eats a hole in the tank or the electrodes stop working. Also, and most obvious, setting your water heater to above 120 degrees is of no benefit to you—it only uses more energy, costing you more money.

Note, having soft water is not necessarily a plus because the softer the water the more corrosion and the harder the water the more scale. So what’s the solution?

Your Two Do-it-Yourself Water Heater Tips

1. Lower Water Heater Temperature

One, lower the temperature on your water heater to 120 or below. Hey, mine’s at 110 and there are no complaints from the ladies in my house.

Lowering the temperature on a gas water heater is relatively easy. Just turn the dial to the desired temperature and that’s it.

An electric water heater is quite different. Depending on the tank size, you may have one or two heating elements. These will most likely be located behind small panels on the outside of the water heater. That’s where the temperature adjustments are located.

BEFORE you attempt to adjust the temperature of your electric water heater you must turn off the electricity to the water heater. Next, consult your owners manual to the proper procedure for adjusting the temperature.

If you don’t have one, here is where you can find owner’s manuals.

Next, locate and remove the access panel/s. After the panel is removed you may have to move aside a bit of insulation to see the temperature dial. The dial usually has a place to put a small slotted screwdriver in the middle to adjust/turn the pointer to the desired temperature.

Once you have set the temperature replace the insulation and panel and you’re done.

2. Drain and Flush Water Heater Tank

It’s recommended you drain and flush your tank at least once a year. This helps remove debris and sediment from the tank.

Most water heaters have a plastic drain valve located at the bottom of the tank.

Connect a garden hose to the drain valve. Be Careful, as these valves typically are not of the best quality and can easily break.

Once you have the hose attached to the drain valve Turn off the electricity to the water heater (at the circuit breaker) or turn the gas off to your water heater.

Next, turn off the cold water supply to the water heater. Usually located at the top of the water heater.

Open the drain valve slowly to check for leaks where the hose connects to the valve. If all is well open the valve and let the water drain.

Once the tank is empty, open the cold water supply on the top of the tank to flush any remaining sediment out. Let the water run for about 1 minute, then turn off the cold water supply.

Once the tank is empty Close the pressure relief valve. Then Close the drain valve and disconnect the hose. Have a towel ready for any mishaps.

Turn the cold water supply back on. Open a faucet in the kitchen or bathroom to relieve the air being flushed from the tank and let it fill.

Once the tank is filled turn off the open faucet and turn on the electricity to your water heater.

For gas water heaters be sure to follow the directions in your manual for turning the gas back on to your water heater.

That’s it. You now have a cleaner more efficient water heater, and you did it yourself.

By following these two easy do-it-yourself water heater maintenance tips you can save energy, money and add more life to your water heater.

One last DIY Tip: To save even more money, insulate your water heater.

Just one more useful solution to help you succeed with speed.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

DIY TIP: Check out “The Complete Guide to Plumbing”, The perfect reference guide for all your DIY plumbing projects. About $17 from Amazon.

If you are interested in making the switch to a Tankless Water Heater, check below.

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2 Amazingly Simple DIY Water Heater Maintenance Tips

If you recall, I covered the importance of washing machine hose maintenance earlier. If not, please do so as it can save you from costly repairs.

You will need to buy either a pair of rubber or braided 6 foot washer hoses at your hardware or home center (I recommend the braided hoses). Make sure they come with the little rubber washers for each end of the hoses.

You’ll need the following supplies;

• Adjustable pliers
• Teflon tape
• Small bucket
• Couple of rags

Shut off the water

First, shut off the water supply valves to the washing machine (located on the wall behind the washer).

Pull the washing machine away from the wall to gain access to the rear of the machine.

Remove hose from washing machine

Have a small bucket and a towel to catch the water left in the hoses as you remove them from the washing machine. Loosen one of the hoses at the washing machine first and put the end of the hose in the bucket. Next remove the second hose and place it in the bucket so it can drain too.

Remove hoses from wall connections

Now loosen and remove the hoses from the wall connections. Drain the hoses in the bucket and wipe up any spills that usually happen.

Install new washing machine hoses

Now you’re ready to install the new hoses. First make sure the rubber washers are installed in each hose end. Put a couple of wraps of Teflon tape on the wall connections and the washer connections (two to three wraps is good). Notice on the washer it will have a “C” and a “H” next to the connections, this designates Hot and Cold.

Make a note of which is which. When connecting the hoses to the supply valves and to the washer DO NOT over tighten. You are only trying to compress the little rubber washer in the end of the hose to make a good seal. Snug is good (if one of the hoses leak you can tighten them a bit to stop the leak).

Now connect the first hose to the bottom connection of the washer (connections are usually stacked one above the other. If not, connect to either). Now connect the second hose to the washer. Next, connect the hose from the Hot connection of the washer to the left (Hot) connection on the wall supply valve. Then connect the remaining hose to the right (Cold) connection on the wall supply valve.

Turn on the water / check for leaks

Turn on the water at the wall and check for leaks. The best way to check for leaks is to wipe a napkin, paper towel or a tissue over the connections. If there’s a leak, gently tighten the connection. This will stop the leak.

Test washer / final check for leaks

Next, start the washer like you normally would. The washer will start filling with water and purge the air from the lines. Now check the four connections again and make certain there are no leaks. Just let the washer fill for a few seconds and turn it off. To empty the water from the washer, set the cycle to spin and let the washer run till it shuts down.

One last thing, clean up and you’re finished! Congratulations!

DIY Tip: Check out “The Complete Guide to Plumbing“

The perfect reference guide for all your DIY plumbing projects.

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If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

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How to Replace a Washing Machine Hose

Are you having trouble with a faucet in your house. Maybe it’s leaking, the water isn’t flowing well, or squirting out to the side funny. This is usually caused by mineral build up in the faucet’s aerator screen.

Repairing a rouge faucet can be a pretty simple project, that is, if you can get the spout unscrewed without scratching or completely destroying it.

Here’s a quick and easy solution to help you successfully unscrew a stuck or overtightened spout.

You’ll need the following Do-it-Yourself supplies;

• Adjustable pliers
• Small rag
• Old toothbrush

Easy Method for Removing a Stuck Sink Spout

First, to prevent scratching, wrap the rag once around the spout. Adjust your pliers and apply them to the rag around the spout.

Next, slowly and carefully turn the spout clockwise and it will come loose.

Now unscrew the spout with you fingers, being careful not to loose any parts.

Now that you have the spout removed you can use the toothbrush to clean out any debris in the screen, rinse the screen (and the other parts well) and then reassemble in reverse order. Remember to use the rag again when you tighten the spout with the pliers — and don’t over tighten, it only needs to be snug.

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Rouge Faucets, Fixing the Leak

Here’s the problem.

One of the most common causes of flood damage in the home (kitchen, laundry room, garage, or basement) is from a burst washing machine hose.

It’s true.

Which leads me to ask the question, “Have you ever checked the water supply hoses to your washing machine?” No? That’s okay, most home owners never do.

If you haven’t checked the washing machine supply hoses since you’ve lived in your house, or within the last five years, you should replace them as soon as possible.

Believe me, I’ve known many people whose homes have been flooded simply due to an old washing machine hose. And this is not a cheap cleanup — typically around $4,000.

Ironically, washing machine hoses are inexpensive, easy to change and certainly worth the $20-$30 bucks to do so. Plus, the only tool you need is an adjustable pliers/channel locks (well, and some Teflon tape).

By the way, there are two types of washing machine hoses available; standard rubber hoses and braided hoses.

The braided hoses cost a bit more but are a worth the extra money as they are very resistant to any abrasion like moving the washing machine or things falling on the hoses. Six foot hoses are the most common and allow you to pull the washer completely out to perform any service.

Although I don’t do many “how to” articles, I’ve made an exception with this do-it-yourself article, “How to Change A Washing Machine Hose”.

Succeeding with speed through knowledge and preventive maintenance.
If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you.

Check out “The Complete Guide to Plumbing”. The perfect reference guide for all your DIY plumbing projects. About $17 from Amazon.com Read more.

DIY article from: DIYAnswerGuy.com. Don't forget to follow me (@DIYAnswerGuy) on Twitter for more DIY answers. Thanks!

This Simple DIY Tip Can Save You Thousands of Dollars

Knowing the basics of how things work around your home makes dealing with an emergency much easier and less stressful.

If you’re like most homeowners, you may not know where all the water and gas shut-off valves are located in your home, so take a few minutes to educate yourself and avoid the panic that come with an emergency.

How To Find Water Shut-off Valves

There are usually two main water shut-offs for most homes. One inside the house and one outside the house.

The water shut-off valve inside the house is usually located near your water heater, probably on top of the water heater. The outside water shut-off valve is usually located below the hose bib on the front of the house. If it’s not located there, your only outside shut off could be inside the water meter box on the street side of the house.

To shut off the water at the meter, you will need either a crescent wrench or a 4 in 1 tool.

Make sure you keep the shut-off tool where you can get to it quickly. Also, a water meter shut-off valve usually only requires a half turn to shut off the water.

Once you have found these shut-offs you’ll know right where to go if you have an emergency. You might even tag your shut-offs, since you typically don’t use them except in an emergency.

Most homes also have individual shut-offs under each sink and toilet too. Make sure they work. And don’t forget to make sure everyone in the house knows where the shut-off are and how to use them.

While we’re on the subject on shut-off vales, another shut-off I’d like to talk about is your gas shut-off valve.

How To Find Gas Shut-off Valves

If you have natural gas or propane piped into your home you must know where the gas shut-off valve is located.

If you have natural gas, the shut-off is located on your gas meter, usually on the side or your house. It requires a crescent wrench or a 4 in one tool to operate the shut-off, and usually only takes one half-turn to close the valve.

If you have propane, your shut-off valve is on the tank.

Also, any gas appliances will have a shut-off valve on the gas line where it is connected to the appliance (or it should!). Knowing this information is critical in an emergency.

Taking these few minutes to educate yourself will help protect you and give you piece of mind.

Learn More

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

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How To Prepare for a Water or Gas Emergency in Your Home