Sometimes when you’re planning, or working on a do-it-yourself home improvement project you find that you just need a bit of quality information on how things work in order to proceed–like electrical, plumbing, or basic construction.

So today, I’d like to help you do just that.

Below you’ll find three of the best do-it-yourself reference books on the market. I’ve been using these great DIY books since they were first published, and, I’m still using, loaning, and recommending them to friends today.
All three books are inexpensive, easy to understand, and are loaded with excellent photos and descriptions.

Whether you want to just learn the basics, or take on some advanced DIY projects, these are the best DIY books to own.

Anyway you look at it, having these DIY home improvement guides on hand will surely help you succeed.

And remember, for answers to your specific questions, just ask your DIY Consultant.

The Complete Guide to Wiring

This fantastic DIY reference and learning guide and has over 700 easy to understand photographs and diagrams, making it an invaluable tool for the 
DIY’er.

It covers all the basics such as, how electricity works, how electrical circuits works, electrical terms, how a home’s electrical system is set up, electrical circuit breaker panels, wiring switches, outlets, GFIs, lights, and fans, as well as information on DIY electrical tools, safety, security systems, home theaters and surround-sound systems.

It also covers most types of wire, cables, and conduits. As well as many types of DIY electrical repairs such as, plugs, cords, light fixtures, ceiling fans, and much, much more.

I bought this book when it was first published, and it taught me all the DIY electrical basics when I first started out, and I’m sure 
it will do the same for you. Enjoy!

The Complete Guide to Plumbing

This book is filled with so many excellent pictures, diagrams and explanations that you’ll probably never need to buy another DIY plumbing book again.

It explains not only how a plumbing system works, but breaks it down into the water supply system, and the waste/venting system. You’ll learn how to install basic plumbing, add new plumbing, make repairs, and even how to solder.

Plus, the how to install bathroom and kitchen sinks, all types of faucets, toilets, garbage disposals, dishwashers, water heaters, bath tubs, showers, washing machines, and more. As well, it covers the how to of DIY plumbing repairs, such as– toilets, sprayers, aerators, leaks, drains, and so much more.

It also covers the how to of working with Pex, piping (cross-linked polyethylene) the bendable water supply tubing that’s taking over a major portion of the DIY market. As well as working with PVC pipe, copper pipe, outdoor flexible pipe, iron pipe, and most plumbing fittings.

From basic repairs to advanced renovations, this is the best 
plumbing book I’ve ever found for the DIY homeowner.

Building and Finishing Walls and Ceilings

This must be the most comprehensive DIY book on building and finishing 
walls and ceilings I’ve ever seen.

It takes you step by step on how to build walls, ceilings and soffits. It also teaches you how to frame with wood and steel. There’s a section on how to build glass block walls, as well as sound proofing walls, and ceilings. Plus a section on building curved walls.

The drywall section includes drywall basics, hanging drywall, drywall finishing, and drywall repairs. This includes taping, mudding 
and finishing techniques.

There’s also a section on painting which includes, painting tools, techniques (such as washes and faux), and wallpapering.

If that’s not enough, there’s a section on door and window trim, wainscoting, crown molding, paneling, suspended ceilings, ceiling tiles, and more.

This book has tons of full-color photos, and easy to understand step by step instructions that will ensure you succeed with speed

These three do-it-yourself reference books will prove to be invaluable resources for many years to come. They also make great DIY gifts too.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY Consultant.

DIY article from: DIYAnswerGuy.com. Don't forget to follow me (@DIYAnswerGuy) on Twitter for more DIY answers. Thanks!

Three of the Best Do-it-Yourself Home Improvement Reference Books You Can Own

Many people burn wood as a source of heat for their homes. Many more are considering doing the same. I’d like to talk to you about two common problems you may face when selecting and seasoning firewood.

One problem is how to choose the best firewood.

Many people buy the cheapest wood available, and that’s understandable in these economic times. But in doing so, you may be sending your hard earned cash up the fireplace chimney in a puff of smoke.

The other problem is how to properly store firewood and dry (also known as “seasoning”) firewood.

The solutions to those problems in just a minute, but first a bit about how airtight wood stoves extract heat from wood and the problems associated with burning green unseasoned firewood.

How Does A Wood Stove Work

How does a wood stove extract heat from firewood?

The primary source of heat from a wood stove is from the combustion of the wood. The secondary source of heat is from the combustion of the gasified resins and unburned wood particles that result from the primary fire. This all occurs efficiently, providing you’re using dry seasoned firewood.

When you use unseasoned, wet wood in your stove, the water contained in the wood heats up and turns to steam. Unseasoned wood can use ½ of the heat it produces just to boil off the moisture and keep the fire burning. This production of steam will cut your heat output by up to 50%. Burning unseasoned wood results in cool water-laden smoke, filled with unburned particles and exhaust gases. All bad.

You see, this wet, heavy, high-density smoke travels very slowly up the chimney, where it cools even further, condensing onto the inside walls of the chimney and causing excessive creosote formation. Also bad.

Therefore, unseasoned wood produces less heat, creates more creosote, and increases the likelihood of a chimney fire.

Solution: to get the most energy efficient heat for your money and efforts, start by using high density dry seasoned firewood. Doing so is like upgrading your clothes dryer to a high efficiency model, it uses less gas or electricity to produce the same heat.

How To Choose The Best Firewood

There are different species of wood available in different parts of the country, and every species of wood has a different density (weight) and BTU output.

Why is this important?

Whether you are buying wood or cutting your own, you’ll want to get the most for you money or efforts. Right?

This chart shows the density and BTU output for the various species of woods, to help you do just that.

Remember you’ll get the best results burning properly seasoned wood with the highest density. Obviously there are more species of wood out there, but this covers some of the most common.

The following chart shows various woods by BTU content (1 MBTU = one million BTU’s)

Weight and Heat content figures are based on seasoned wood at 20% moisture content. One cord of wood is measured as 4′ x 4′ x 8′ = 128 cubic feet.

Now that you have some background information on how to choose the best firewood to heat your home, the question remains, how best to season the firewood?

Do-it-Yourself Tips For Storing and Seasoning Your Firewood

Wood Preparation

Green wood contains up to 80% moisture by weight, and doesn’t always season properly due to improper storage. Also, seasoned wood will not always stay that way if improperly stored. That being said, to properly season your firewood, remove the bark, when possible, as this will speed up the drying/seasoning process and reduces the woods ability to re-absorb moisture.

Note: Pitchy woods, such as Douglas Fir, needs more time to season before it is dry enough to burn properly.

Firewood Drying Time

The firewood drying process takes anywhere from 9 to 12 months depending upon the species of wood, the amount of airflow, and the humidity and temperature of the storage area. As moisture evaporates from the wood, air circulation is necessary to carry it away.

What Seasoned (Dried) Firewood Looks Like.
Here’s an example of a piece of properly seasoned Douglas Fir.

No bark, no mold, just dry and ready to burn.

Where To Store Firewood

Stack your firewood in a dry covered area with plenty of air circulation, meaning plenty of circulation under the wood as well as all around the sides and top. The best storage option is a woodshed with open slat walls, woodshed which allows air to circulate, and it’s best that it has an overhanging roof to keep the rain off the wood.

Note: Dry, seasoned wood stacked out in the rain will soak up enough water to revert to its original moisture content. When this happens the wood needs to be reseasoned until it is once again dry enough for use. This can take weeks, perhaps months.

Using A Tarp To Protect Firewood

If you don’t have a woodshed and will be storing your firewood under a tarp then you should be aware that a tarp creates a micro-environment. The evaporated moisture from the wood condenses on the underside of the tarp and drips back down on the wood and is reabsorbed.

The solution is to  take a few pieces of wood and create a peak in the tarp at the top of your stack so the water will run to the tarp edges, instead of just dripping back onto the wood.

Be sure to fasten down the edges far enough away from the wood to keep the water away, but also tie the tarp edges down in a manner that allows air to flow under and around the tarp.

There’s a ton of information out there about burning wood for home heating, but these important basics can help you can make informed energy efficient choices concerning your home heating.

Important things to Remember

• Choose the higher density (heavier) woods.
• Cut, stack, store and season your firewood properly.
• And most of all, have your chimney cleaned every year!
• Follow these simple tips you will certainly succeed with speed.

A Special Note of Thanks.

I’d like to thank my good friend and neighbor Mike for giving me all the great information on firewood for home heating. Mike has been using wood for home heating for decades and really knows his stuff. He’s currently helping me plan my move to wood heat.

Thanks again Mike, for all the great tips and information.
You’re the best.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Firewood storage racks

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8 Large Steel Sturdy Firewood Log Rack Black 274694

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How To Choose and Season Firewood

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wM7Vp6lQ2fs

I understand the frustration you feel when you want remove something hanging on the wall (book shelf, picture, towel rack, etc.) only to find out that a wall anchor needs removed too.

And, as you probably know, trying to remove that little wall anchor by pulling it out usually leaves a really big hole!

Now your small do-it-yourself project has turned into a large hole patching project too.

You see, most wall anchors are plastic and have barbs that hold them in place. These work quite well but tend to leave big holes in the wall if you try to pull them out.

Well, I have a great little tip for you that will help you easily remove that wall anchor while minimizing the hole to patch.

So here we go.

How to Remove Wall Anchors

Our goal is to cut the face of the anchor off and then push the remaining part of the anchor through the wall.

1. Take a new utility blade and place it flat against the wall just above the anchor face. * BE CAREFUL. Using a utility blade like this can lead to injury. I recommend wearing gloves.
2. Next, slide the blade slowly and carefully behind the face of the anchor.
3. Alternate downward pressure, left to right, on the blade, slowly cutting the anchor face off.
4. Once the anchor face has been cut off, gently push the remaining part of the anchor (that is left inside the hole) into the wall. A small Phillips head screwdriver works well.

Now you have just have a small hole to patch.

Removable Wall Anchors

There is a newer type of wall anchor available to do-it-yourself’ers called EZ Anchor.

These wall anchors come in a variety of sizes and screw directly into the wall.

This is a time-saving benefit for both installing and removing because when you need to remove the anchor, you can simply un-screw it from the wall and patch. You can pick up EZ Anchors at your local home center.

It’s that easy.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Here’s some laser stud finders to help make your next project easier.

Stud Finders

If you can’t find what you’re looking for, click through for more options.

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BD Bulls Eye Auto Leveling Laser Line and Stud finder

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How to Easily Remove Wall Anchors

The easiest and fastest way to clean tile grout is by using a steam machine, such as the Euro Pro Shark Super Steamer. Just apply steam to the grout, use a toothbrush on any stubborn spots and wipe clean.

You can pick up a steamer for about $40 and they’re also a great way to clean windows, bathroom fixtures, appliances and so much more.

Another time saving tip to help you succeed with speed.

DIY article from: DIYAnswerGuy.com. Don't forget to follow me (@DIYAnswerGuy) on Twitter for more DIY answers. Thanks!

How to Clean Tile Grout Lines

Do you have a wood screw that’s not holding well? You know, the screws you keep having to tighten in a place where you can’t just use a larger screw.

Not to worry as I have the solution for you.

Here’s How To;

1. Remove the loose screw.
2. Drill the screw hole out to the same size as a golf tee.
3. Put a drop of carpenters glue in the hole.
4. Next, tap the golf tee in the hole and let the glue dry.
5. Cut off the excess tee sticking out. A hack saw blade works great.
6. Re-install a new screw.

Providing solutions to help you succeed with speed.

DIY article from: DIYAnswerGuy.com. Don't forget to follow me (@DIYAnswerGuy) on Twitter for more DIY answers. Thanks!

How To Fix a Loose Wood Screw

Are you going crazy because of a squeaky spot in the floor or in one of your stair steps? Have you run out of things to try or just don’t know where to begin?

Well here’s another simple do-it-yourself home improvement solution.

This Squeak No More Kit eliminates annoying squeaks quickly and easily.

You can pick up your [amazon ISBN=B0006IK8YE]Squeak No More Kit[/amazon] at Amazon and check out this great how to video demonstration on how to use the kit.

The solutions you need to succeed with speed.

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Silencing Squeaky Floors and Steps

Are you having a problem with the toilet tank sweating and dripping all over the floor? Well don’t feel alone as many people have this irritating problem.

First, the reason your toilet tank sweats is that the water entering the tank has a temperature of around 45 degrees and the room temperature is typically higher. So when the warmer room air comes in contact with the cooler toilet tank the air condenses, causing the tank to sweat and drip on the floor.

To resolve this problem you need to install an anti sweat valve.

The anti sweat valve takes a bit of hot water, from the hot water supply, and mixes it with the cold water supply to the toilet. This increases the temperature of the water in the tank just enough to stop the room air from condensing, thus solving the problem.

Anti sweat valves cost about $20–30 dollars and are easily installed.

DIY Tip: Check out “The Complete Guide to Plumbing” The perfect reference guide for all your DIY plumbing projects. About $17 from Amazon.com Check it out.

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Sweating Toilet Tanks

Having a problem with your stove, refrigerator, washer or dryer? Can’t find the model year, manual or parts? Well here’s a great resource to help you succeed with speed and save money.

These great sites provide you with information like who makes the brand of appliance you own, what model and year it is, parts lists, manuals, users forums (place to ask questions), and much more.

Appliance Information Resources

• Appliance 411
• Appliance Aid

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Appliance Information Resources

If there’s moss, algae or lichen growing on your roof, that growth will shorten the life of your roof. Here’s a simple solution to alleviate the problem.

So here we go.

Mix up a solution of equal parts bleach and water in a garden sprayer. Spray the mixture on the affected areas of the roof. This will kill the moss, algae and lichen.

To greatly reduce these growths from returning, install zinc strips across your roof line. The zinc strips/shield typically comes in 50 foot lengths and run about $55 dollars.

When it rains, the zinc will mix with the rain to form a film of zinc carbonate that will coat the roof, reducing the likely return of these growths.

Here’s one place to get your zinc shield. And a great how-to install zinc strips video.

PS: Copper strips or copper ridge caps will do the same job. They’re just a bit more expensive.

One more do-it-yourself tip to help you succeed with speed.

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How To Remove Moss From Your Roof