How To Choose and Season Firewood

Effec­tive do-it-yourself tips for choosing and drying firewood.

Many people burn wood as a source of heat for their homes. Many more of you may be consid­ering doing the same, so I’d like to talk about two common prob­lems you may be faced with in doing so.

One problem is how to choose the best firewood.

Many people buy the cheapest wood avail­able, and that’s under­stand­able in these economic times. But in doing so, you may be sending your hard earned cash up the chimney in a puff of smoke.

The other problem is how to prop­erly store and dry (also known as “seasoning”) fire­wood.

The solu­tions to those prob­lems in just a minute, but first a bit about how airtight wood stoves extract heat from wood and the prob­lems asso­ci­ated with burning green unsea­soned firewood.

How Does A Wood Stove Work

How does a wood stove extract heat from firewood?

The primary source of heat from a wood stove is from the combus­tion of the wood. The secondary source of heat is from the combus­tion of the gasi­fied resins and unburned wood parti­cles that result from the primary fire. This all occurs effi­ciently, providing you’re using dry seasoned firewood.

When you use unsea­soned, wet wood in your stove, the water contained in the wood heats up and turns to steam. Unsea­soned wood can use ½ of the heat it produces just to boil off the mois­ture and keep the fire burning. This produc­tion of steam will cut your heat output by up to 50%. Burning unsea­soned wood results in cool water-laden smoke, filled with unburned parti­cles and exhaust gases. All bad.

You see, this wet, heavy, high-density smoke travels very slowly up the chimney, where it cools even further, condensing onto the inside walls of the chimney and causing exces­sive creosote forma­tion. Also bad.

There­fore, unsea­soned wood produces less heat, creates more creosote, and increases the like­li­hood of a chimney fire.

Solu­tion: to get the most energy effi­cient heat for your money and efforts, start by using high density dry seasoned fire­wood. Doing so is like upgrading your clothes dryer to a high effi­ciency model, it uses less gas or elec­tricity to produce the same heat.

How To Choose The Best Firewood

There are different species of wood avail­able in different parts of the country, and every species of wood has a different density (weight) and BTU output.

Why is this important?

Whether you are buying wood or cutting your own, you’ll want to get the most for you money or efforts. Right?

This chart shows the density and BTU output for the various species of woods, to help you do just that.

Remember you’ll get the best results burning prop­erly seasoned wood with the highest density. Obvi­ously there are more species of wood out there, but this covers some of the most common.

The following chart shows various woods by BTU content (1 MBTU = one million BTU’s)

Weight and Heat content figures are based on seasoned wood at 20% mois­ture content. One cord of wood is measured as 4′ x 4′ x 8′ = 128 cubic feet.

Woods by BTU content
(1 MBTU = one million BTU’s)
Species Pounds/Cord MBTU
Alder 3,965 25.8
Apple 6,150 39.8
Ash 5,320 29.9
Birch 4,650 30.4
Cedar 2,569 18.3
Douglas Fir 4,350 27.1
Elm 4,660 32.4
Hemlock 4,272 23.3
Hickory 5,748 36.1
Maple 4,386 28
Oak 5,625 36
Pine 3,339 21.9

Now that you have some back­ground infor­ma­tion on how to choose the best fire­wood to heat your home, the ques­tion remains, how best to season the firewood?

Do-it-Yourself Tips For Storing and Seasoning Your Firewood

Wood Prepa­ra­tion

Green wood contains up to 80% mois­ture by weight, and doesn’t always season prop­erly due to improper storage. Also, seasoned wood will not always stay that way if improp­erly stored. That being said, to prop­erly season your fire­wood, remove the bark, when possible, as this will speed up the drying/seasoning process and reduces the woods ability to re-absorb moisture.

Note: Pitchy woods, such as Douglas Fir, needs more time to season before it is dry enough to burn properly.

Fire­wood Drying Time

The drying process takes anywhere from 9 to 12 months depending upon the species of wood, the amount of airflow, and the humidity and temper­a­ture of the storage area. As mois­ture evap­o­rates from the wood, air circu­la­tion is neces­sary to carry it away.

What Seasoned (Dried) Fire­wood Looks Like.
Here’s an example of a piece of prop­erly seasoned Douglas Fir.

No bark, no mold, just dry and ready to burn.

Where To Store Firewood

Stack your fire­wood in a dry covered area with plenty of air circu­la­tion, meaning plenty of circu­la­tion under the wood as well as all around the sides and top. The best storage option is a wood­shed with open slat walls, woodshed which allows air to circu­late, and it’s best that it has an over­hanging roof to keep the rain off the wood.

Note: Dry, seasoned wood stacked out in the rain will soak up enough water to revert to its orig­inal mois­ture content. When this happens the wood needs to be resea­soned until it is once again dry enough for use. This can take weeks, perhaps months.

Using A Tarp To Protect Firewood

If you don’t have a wood­shed and will be storing your fire­wood under a tarp then you should be aware that a tarp creates a micro-environment. The evap­o­rated mois­ture from the wood condenses on the under­side of the tarp and drips back down on the wood and is reabsorbed.

The solu­tion is to  take a few pieces of wood and create a peak in the tarp at the top of your stack so the water will run to the tarp edges, instead of just drip­ping back onto the wood.

Be sure to fasten down the edges far enough away from the wood to keep the water away, but also tie the tarp edges down in a manner that allows air to flow under and around the tarp.

DIY Tip: Stacking wood off the ground using pallets or a few 2x4s or 2x6s will greatly improve air flow and reduce mois­ture prob­lems. Also a few scrap 2x4s can be used to hold the tarp away from the wood and increase airflow.

There’s a ton of infor­ma­tion out there about burning wood for home heating, but these impor­tant basics can help you can make informed energy effi­cient choices concerning your home heating.

Impor­tant things to Remember

  • Choose the higher density (heavier) woods.
  • Cut, stack, store and season your fire­wood properly.
  • And most of all, have your chimney cleaned every year!
  • Follow these simple tips you will certainly succeed with speed.

A Special Note of Thanks.

I’d like to thank my good friend and neighbor Mike for giving me all the great infor­ma­tion on fire­wood for home heating. Mike has been using wood for home heating for decades and really knows his stuff. He’s currently helping me plan my move to wood heat.

Thanks again Mike, for all the great tips and infor­ma­tion.
You’re the best.

If you have ques­tions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consul­tant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Fire­wood storage racks

40 Firewood Storage Log Rack Hoop Holder 40 Fire­wood Storage Log Rack Hoop Holder 49.00
HYC Company Tubular Steel Log Rack 87 x 13 x 45 NEW HYC Company Tubular Steel Log Rack 87 x 13 x 45 NEW 39.99
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WOODHAVEN LOG FIREWOOD RACK WITH COVER 4x4x14 WOODHAVEN LOG FIREWOOD RACK WITH COVER 4x4x14 144.00
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4x4x14 Woodhaven Firewood Log Rack Cover 1 4cord 4x4x14 Wood­haven Fire­wood Log Rack Cover 1 4cord 144.00
PANACEA 15203 4 BLACK STEEL 1 2 CORD FIREWOOD LOG RACK PANACEA 15203 4 BLACK STEEL 1 2 CORD FIREWOOD LOG RACK 34.99
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Thanks again.
Larry
Your DIY Answer Guy. Follow me on twitter here.

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