With the help of almost the entire DIY population here are the seldom revealed, but well know real uses of our common DIY tools. Enjoy!

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER

Normally used to stab a hole in oil cans thus splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used to strip out Phillips screws, while blistering your palm.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER

A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws, and butchering or slotting your palms.

PLIERS

Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

SIDE CUTTERS

Most often used to cut electrical wires resulting in a flash of light, followed by smoke and a breaker being tripped.

VISE-GRIPS

Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

CHISEL

The best tool to create a huge splinter of wood where you only wanted to remove a bit.

HAMMER

Originally employed as a weapon of war. Nowadays the hammer is often used to bend nails, flatten fingers and sometimes destroy anything close to what we are trying to hit.

UTILITY KNIFE

Used to slice through the contents of cardboard packages delivered to your front door; such as seats, clothes, liquids in plastic bottles, books, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Also useful in sharpening pencils from 6″ down to 2″ in a matter of seconds.

PRY BAR

Most effective in destroying the wooden trim that you are trying to remove, or putting a hole in the drywall as you try to remove that wooden trim. Also a great to crumple that metal clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER

Simply a tool used to make hoses too short.

THE NAIL SET

By far the best tool for setting nails and splitting trim at the same time.

HACKSAW

One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle… It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

SKILL SAW

A portable cutting tool used to cut studs too short, make incomprehensible miter cuts, and make weaving cuts down the length of a sheet of plywood.

RECIPROCATING SAW

The perfect power tool for breaking blades as soon as you pull the trigger.

BELT SANDER

An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

THE 1/2″ DRILL with two handles

First off, go ahead and remove that side handle. Now proceed with breaking your wrist. Told you so.

JIG SAW

The best power tool for cutting weavy lines on some bizarre angle.

TABLE SAW

A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity, as well as shortening digits.

PALM SANDER

Excellent for sanding the little scratches out of that table top, but resulting in burning through the veneer.

THE COMPOUND MITER SAW

Yes, you guessed it, for cutting those compound miters on crown molding that are always just a bit to short.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK

Used for lifting your car of the ground, but not keeping it there. Also used to test the strength of parts not made for lifting you car off the ground.

DRILL PRESS

A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching whatever you’re drilling out of your hands, so that it smacks you in the chest, flings your beer across the room, and ultimately dents the freshly-painted project you had carefully set in the corner.

WIRE WHEEL

Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ‘Oh sh –’

OXYACETYLENE TORCH

Used almost exclusively for lighting almost anything in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.

BAND SAW

A large stationary power saw primarily used to cut most types of material into smaller pieces that fit more easily into the trash can, due to cutting on the wrong side of the line.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST

A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

THE SON of a B****’ TOOL

The closest tool you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ‘Son of a B****’ at the top of your lungs, just after having used any of the above. It usually turns out to be the next tool you’ll need right after you let it fly.

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The Truth About Tools

Sometimes when you’re planning, or working on a do-it-yourself home improvement project you find that you just need a bit of quality information on how things work in order to proceed–like electrical, plumbing, or basic construction.

So today, I’d like to help you do just that.

Below you’ll find three of the best do-it-yourself reference books on the market. I’ve been using these great DIY books since they were first published, and, I’m still using, loaning, and recommending them to friends today.
All three books are inexpensive, easy to understand, and are loaded with excellent photos and descriptions.

Whether you want to just learn the basics, or take on some advanced DIY projects, these are the best DIY books to own.

Anyway you look at it, having these DIY home improvement guides on hand will surely help you succeed.

And remember, for answers to your specific questions, just ask your DIY Consultant.

The Complete Guide to Wiring

This fantastic DIY reference and learning guide and has over 700 easy to understand photographs and diagrams, making it an invaluable tool for the 
DIY’er.

It covers all the basics such as, how electricity works, how electrical circuits works, electrical terms, how a home’s electrical system is set up, electrical circuit breaker panels, wiring switches, outlets, GFIs, lights, and fans, as well as information on DIY electrical tools, safety, security systems, home theaters and surround-sound systems.

It also covers most types of wire, cables, and conduits. As well as many types of DIY electrical repairs such as, plugs, cords, light fixtures, ceiling fans, and much, much more.

I bought this book when it was first published, and it taught me all the DIY electrical basics when I first started out, and I’m sure 
it will do the same for you. Enjoy!

The Complete Guide to Plumbing

This book is filled with so many excellent pictures, diagrams and explanations that you’ll probably never need to buy another DIY plumbing book again.

It explains not only how a plumbing system works, but breaks it down into the water supply system, and the waste/venting system. You’ll learn how to install basic plumbing, add new plumbing, make repairs, and even how to solder.

Plus, the how to install bathroom and kitchen sinks, all types of faucets, toilets, garbage disposals, dishwashers, water heaters, bath tubs, showers, washing machines, and more. As well, it covers the how to of DIY plumbing repairs, such as– toilets, sprayers, aerators, leaks, drains, and so much more.

It also covers the how to of working with Pex, piping (cross-linked polyethylene) the bendable water supply tubing that’s taking over a major portion of the DIY market. As well as working with PVC pipe, copper pipe, outdoor flexible pipe, iron pipe, and most plumbing fittings.

From basic repairs to advanced renovations, this is the best 
plumbing book I’ve ever found for the DIY homeowner.

Building and Finishing Walls and Ceilings

This must be the most comprehensive DIY book on building and finishing 
walls and ceilings I’ve ever seen.

It takes you step by step on how to build walls, ceilings and soffits. It also teaches you how to frame with wood and steel. There’s a section on how to build glass block walls, as well as sound proofing walls, and ceilings. Plus a section on building curved walls.

The drywall section includes drywall basics, hanging drywall, drywall finishing, and drywall repairs. This includes taping, mudding 
and finishing techniques.

There’s also a section on painting which includes, painting tools, techniques (such as washes and faux), and wallpapering.

If that’s not enough, there’s a section on door and window trim, wainscoting, crown molding, paneling, suspended ceilings, ceiling tiles, and more.

This book has tons of full-color photos, and easy to understand step by step instructions that will ensure you succeed with speed

These three do-it-yourself reference books will prove to be invaluable resources for many years to come. They also make great DIY gifts too.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY Consultant.

DIY article from: DIYAnswerGuy.com. Don't forget to follow me (@DIYAnswerGuy) on Twitter for more DIY answers. Thanks!

Three of the Best Do-it-Yourself Home Improvement Reference Books You Can Own

Many people burn wood as a source of heat for their homes. Many more are considering doing the same. I’d like to talk to you about two common problems you may face when selecting and seasoning firewood.

One problem is how to choose the best firewood.

Many people buy the cheapest wood available, and that’s understandable in these economic times. But in doing so, you may be sending your hard earned cash up the fireplace chimney in a puff of smoke.

The other problem is how to properly store firewood and dry (also known as “seasoning”) firewood.

The solutions to those problems in just a minute, but first a bit about how airtight wood stoves extract heat from wood and the problems associated with burning green unseasoned firewood.

How Does A Wood Stove Work

How does a wood stove extract heat from firewood?

The primary source of heat from a wood stove is from the combustion of the wood. The secondary source of heat is from the combustion of the gasified resins and unburned wood particles that result from the primary fire. This all occurs efficiently, providing you’re using dry seasoned firewood.

When you use unseasoned, wet wood in your stove, the water contained in the wood heats up and turns to steam. Unseasoned wood can use ½ of the heat it produces just to boil off the moisture and keep the fire burning. This production of steam will cut your heat output by up to 50%. Burning unseasoned wood results in cool water-laden smoke, filled with unburned particles and exhaust gases. All bad.

You see, this wet, heavy, high-density smoke travels very slowly up the chimney, where it cools even further, condensing onto the inside walls of the chimney and causing excessive creosote formation. Also bad.

Therefore, unseasoned wood produces less heat, creates more creosote, and increases the likelihood of a chimney fire.

Solution: to get the most energy efficient heat for your money and efforts, start by using high density dry seasoned firewood. Doing so is like upgrading your clothes dryer to a high efficiency model, it uses less gas or electricity to produce the same heat.

How To Choose The Best Firewood

There are different species of wood available in different parts of the country, and every species of wood has a different density (weight) and BTU output.

Why is this important?

Whether you are buying wood or cutting your own, you’ll want to get the most for you money or efforts. Right?

This chart shows the density and BTU output for the various species of woods, to help you do just that.

Remember you’ll get the best results burning properly seasoned wood with the highest density. Obviously there are more species of wood out there, but this covers some of the most common.

The following chart shows various woods by BTU content (1 MBTU = one million BTU’s)

Weight and Heat content figures are based on seasoned wood at 20% moisture content. One cord of wood is measured as 4′ x 4′ x 8′ = 128 cubic feet.

Now that you have some background information on how to choose the best firewood to heat your home, the question remains, how best to season the firewood?

Do-it-Yourself Tips For Storing and Seasoning Your Firewood

Wood Preparation

Green wood contains up to 80% moisture by weight, and doesn’t always season properly due to improper storage. Also, seasoned wood will not always stay that way if improperly stored. That being said, to properly season your firewood, remove the bark, when possible, as this will speed up the drying/seasoning process and reduces the woods ability to re-absorb moisture.

Note: Pitchy woods, such as Douglas Fir, needs more time to season before it is dry enough to burn properly.

Firewood Drying Time

The firewood drying process takes anywhere from 9 to 12 months depending upon the species of wood, the amount of airflow, and the humidity and temperature of the storage area. As moisture evaporates from the wood, air circulation is necessary to carry it away.

What Seasoned (Dried) Firewood Looks Like.
Here’s an example of a piece of properly seasoned Douglas Fir.

No bark, no mold, just dry and ready to burn.

Where To Store Firewood

Stack your firewood in a dry covered area with plenty of air circulation, meaning plenty of circulation under the wood as well as all around the sides and top. The best storage option is a woodshed with open slat walls, woodshed which allows air to circulate, and it’s best that it has an overhanging roof to keep the rain off the wood.

Note: Dry, seasoned wood stacked out in the rain will soak up enough water to revert to its original moisture content. When this happens the wood needs to be reseasoned until it is once again dry enough for use. This can take weeks, perhaps months.

Using A Tarp To Protect Firewood

If you don’t have a woodshed and will be storing your firewood under a tarp then you should be aware that a tarp creates a micro-environment. The evaporated moisture from the wood condenses on the underside of the tarp and drips back down on the wood and is reabsorbed.

The solution is to  take a few pieces of wood and create a peak in the tarp at the top of your stack so the water will run to the tarp edges, instead of just dripping back onto the wood.

Be sure to fasten down the edges far enough away from the wood to keep the water away, but also tie the tarp edges down in a manner that allows air to flow under and around the tarp.

There’s a ton of information out there about burning wood for home heating, but these important basics can help you can make informed energy efficient choices concerning your home heating.

Important things to Remember

• Choose the higher density (heavier) woods.
• Cut, stack, store and season your firewood properly.
• And most of all, have your chimney cleaned every year!
• Follow these simple tips you will certainly succeed with speed.

A Special Note of Thanks.

I’d like to thank my good friend and neighbor Mike for giving me all the great information on firewood for home heating. Mike has been using wood for home heating for decades and really knows his stuff. He’s currently helping me plan my move to wood heat.

Thanks again Mike, for all the great tips and information.
You’re the best.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Firewood storage racks

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FIREWOOD STORAGE RACK HOLDER FIREPLACE LOG 4 FOOT WOOD

64.99

New MTN 150 lbs Fireplace Firewood Wood Log Caddy Rack Dolly Holder Free Cover

76.95

New MTN 150 lbs Fireplace Firewood Wood Log Caddy Rack Dolly Holder Free Cover

69.95

Stack It Brackets Firewood Storage Rack Shelf Brackets Workbench Kit

14.99

New 34 Lightweight Black Steel Fireplace Firewood Wood Log Hoop Holder Rack

24.95

New 34 Lightweight Black Steel Fireplace Firewood Wood Log Hoop Holder Rack

49.95

cedar log firewood holder

175.00

New 34 Lightweight Black Steel Fireplace Firewood Wood Log Hoop Holder Rack

24.95

41x44 Outdoor Indoor Firewood Log 4ft Steel Rack Holder Storage 1 2 Face Cord

24.99

New Landmann Adjustable Firewood Rack

42.00

New 34 Lightweight Black Steel Fireplace Firewood Wood Log Hoop Holder Rack

.99

Face Cord Steel FireWood Storage Rack Wood Log Holder 8 Foot 1 2 Cord NEW

65.00

Adjustable Firewood Rack DONT WALK TO THE WOOD PILE

55.28

New 34 Lightweight Black Steel Fireplace Firewood Wood Log Hoop Holder Rack

.99

Fireplace Firewood Wood Log Caddy Steel Rack Dolly Holder Storage w Cover Wheels

69.95

1

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How To Choose and Season Firewood

DIY Water Heater Maintenance Tips

Are you hearing funny noises coming from your water heater? Does it seem like your hot water supply is less? Have you noticed that your gas or electric bill has increased?

Well, your water heater could be the culprit.

Of all the appliances in your home it seems the water heater is ignored most. That is, until it stops working.

Today I’m going to give you two simple do-it-yourself tips that can help extend the life of your water heater and save you some money by reducing energy consumption.

What You Need To Know

First off, it’s important to know that most water contains minerals and sediment. These minerals and sediment travel throughout your water system and usually end up trapped in your faucet aerator, washing machine hose screens, water filters and your water heater.

I’m sure you’ve probably had a faucet that didn’t flow well or the water started to shoot out to the side. And, if you removed the aerator you would find it was full of sediment.

The same thing happens inside your water heater.

Gas Water Heaters

Corrosion, scale, and sediment are the things that cut down the life of your water heater. As the sediment builds up on the bottom of your gas water heater it can increase the amount of time it takes to heat the water, thus using more energy and costing you more money.

Electric Water Heaters

Inside an electric water heater scale builds up on the electrodes that heat the water, also increasing energy consumption. The reason scale builds up on the electrodes is because the hotter the water becomes, the more scale falls out of solution and clings to the electrodes. So if your water heater temperature is set above 120 degrees, there will likely be more scale on the electrodes and more corrosion of the tank.

There is a sacrificial anode inside the tank. It’s purpose is to allow the acid in the water to eat away at it, and not the water heater tank. But, once again, if your water tank temperature is set higher than 120 degrees, the hotter, more acidic, water will eat up that anode much quicker.

And here’s the thing: You won’t even know that the sacrificial anode is gone until the acid/corrosion either eats a hole in the tank or the electrodes stop working. Also, and most obvious, setting your water heater to above 120 degrees is of no benefit to you—it only uses more energy, costing you more money.

Note, having soft water is not necessarily a plus because the softer the water the more corrosion and the harder the water the more scale. So what’s the solution?

Your Two Do-it-Yourself Water Heater Tips

1. Lower Water Heater Temperature

One, lower the temperature on your water heater to 120 or below. Hey, mine’s at 110 and there are no complaints from the ladies in my house.

Lowering the temperature on a gas water heater is relatively easy. Just turn the dial to the desired temperature and that’s it.

An electric water heater is quite different. Depending on the tank size, you may have one or two heating elements. These will most likely be located behind small panels on the outside of the water heater. That’s where the temperature adjustments are located.

BEFORE you attempt to adjust the temperature of your electric water heater you must turn off the electricity to the water heater. Next, consult your owners manual to the proper procedure for adjusting the temperature.

If you don’t have one, here is where you can find owner’s manuals.

Next, locate and remove the access panel/s. After the panel is removed you may have to move aside a bit of insulation to see the temperature dial. The dial usually has a place to put a small slotted screwdriver in the middle to adjust/turn the pointer to the desired temperature.

Once you have set the temperature replace the insulation and panel and you’re done.

2. Drain and Flush Water Heater Tank

It’s recommended you drain and flush your tank at least once a year. This helps remove debris and sediment from the tank.

Most water heaters have a plastic drain valve located at the bottom of the tank.

Connect a garden hose to the drain valve. Be Careful, as these valves typically are not of the best quality and can easily break.

Once you have the hose attached to the drain valve Turn off the electricity to the water heater (at the circuit breaker) or turn the gas off to your water heater.

Next, turn off the cold water supply to the water heater. Usually located at the top of the water heater.

Open the drain valve slowly to check for leaks where the hose connects to the valve. If all is well open the valve and let the water drain.

Once the tank is empty, open the cold water supply on the top of the tank to flush any remaining sediment out. Let the water run for about 1 minute, then turn off the cold water supply.

Once the tank is empty Close the pressure relief valve. Then Close the drain valve and disconnect the hose. Have a towel ready for any mishaps.

Turn the cold water supply back on. Open a faucet in the kitchen or bathroom to relieve the air being flushed from the tank and let it fill.

Once the tank is filled turn off the open faucet and turn on the electricity to your water heater.

For gas water heaters be sure to follow the directions in your manual for turning the gas back on to your water heater.

That’s it. You now have a cleaner more efficient water heater, and you did it yourself.

By following these two easy do-it-yourself water heater maintenance tips you can save energy, money and add more life to your water heater.

One last DIY Tip: To save even more money, insulate your water heater.

Just one more useful solution to help you succeed with speed.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

DIY TIP: Check out “The Complete Guide to Plumbing”, The perfect reference guide for all your DIY plumbing projects. About $17 from Amazon.

If you are interested in making the switch to a Tankless Water Heater, check below.

Tankless Water Heaters

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Titan Tankless Hot Water Heater N 120 Digital Model

205.00

American Heat AH 27 Whole House Tankless Water Heater

177.50

Pre Sediment Filter for Tankless Water Heater

32.00

NEW NATURAL GAS TANKLESS WATER HEATER 423 GPM 16 L

297.95

American Heat 16 KW Whole House Tankless Water Heater

269.00

Pre Sediment Filter for Tankless Water Heater

32.00

American Heat ADK 1 Whole House Tankless Water Heater

185.00

NIB Rheem Tankless Water Heater

580.00

American Heat 16 KW Whole House Tankless Water Heater

269.00

NEW ECCOTEMP FVI 12 LP TANKLESS HOT WATER HEATER High Capacity Propane Gas

172.50

Pre Sediment Filter for Tankless Water Heater

32.00

Tankless Portable Gas Water Heater Marey 15 GPM Liquid Propane Gas

118.99

American Heat ADK 1 Whole House Tankless Water Heater

.01

16 gpm LPG Propane White Ventfree tankless gas water heater no flue required

76.00

16 gpm NATURAL GAS WHITE Ventfree tankless gas water heater NO FLUE REQUIRED

49.88

1

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2 Amazingly Simple DIY Water Heater Maintenance Tips

Over the years I noticed that there were certain do-it-yourself supplies I was continually buying. You know; tape, glue, caulking and many others. Having these DIY supplies on-hand has saved me so much time and money that I decided to assemble a list of those indispensable and most used supplies you should have on-hand before taking on your next DIY project. I’ve also included photos of each for easier reference.

Since these supplies are used so often and are quite inexpensive, you’ll be glad to have them on hand. Also, not having to run to the store every time you need one of these supplies will save you time, money and frustration.

So here we go.

Do-it-Yourself Supplies

Cable Ties

This first one has saved me many times. Cable ties are the totally indispensable fastener. You’ll just be amazed of how many uses there are for these handy items. They come in many different sizes and colors and you can tie almost anything together with these. I have used them for hinges, clamps and even to temporarily hold up plumbing pipes. Definitely a 1001 uses and only about $12 for 650 pieces.

Wood Glue

First choice of glue is yellow carpenters wood glue.  This is a great multi-purpose glue used for joining all types wood. Used extensively in cabinet making and Popsicle stick houses.

Liquid Nails

Liquid Nails is great to have for heavy duty jobs, like laminating wood for a beam, installing sub-floors and extra holding power for outdoor jobs.  Remember, this adhesive is stronger than the wood it holds together, so once it’s glued, getting it apart will be quite improbable.

Liquid Nails also comes in small tubes and in clear as well.

There are many other types of liquid nails for masonry, mirrors, tub surrounds and more. Great for small projects as well.

Latex Caulk

Caulking is essential for giving projects a finished look.  The most popular is Latex painter caulk, used for filling the gaps in moldings, nail holes, sealing up doors and windows and many others. Latex caulking comes in different colors and is paintable.

Don’t forget the caulking-gun (one of many essential DIY tools you should own).

Silicone Caulk

Silicone caulk is great for kitchens, baths, doors and windows. It’s waterproof and comes in colors as well as clear.

Patching Plaster

Patching Plaster  is another must. Great for filling holes in drywall, trim and various finish jobs around the house. It’s easy to apply and can be sanded.

Masking Tape

Masking tape comes in different widths and colors.  The colors represent different applications, such as green is used for very fine line and curve masking. Blue works well for most applications.

Double Back Tape

Double back tape is great for steadying pictures from moving side to side, posting temporary art, holding rugs down and so much more.

Duct Tape

Duct tape is number one on the list of must haves. You know what they say, “duct tape and baling wire”, it’ll hold just about any thing together. There are many different brands, grades and colors, so buy the correct type for the job.

Teflon Tape

Teflon tape is applied to the threaded ends of pipes to improve the water tightness of a joint.  They also make teflon tape for gas pipes too.

Plumbers Tape

Plumbers tape is most often used for hanging pipes, giving them support, but this product is great for so many other uses because it is so pliable.

Drill Bit Gauge

A drill bit gauge is the easiest way to match the size bit you need to a particular screw or bolt.

Carpenter Pencils

A must have for any DIY project.

Coat Hanger

You laugh, but a piece of a coat hanger is great to have in your tool box. It can be used to hold things in place, reach for something you dropped, hang something you want to paint and a million other DIY uses. I’ve had a piece of coat hanger in my tool box for over 30 years–well not the same one.

Walnut Pick

These are great for cleaning out screw heads filled with paint or cleaning out any small area.

Lubricants

Tip, WD-40 is a solvent not a lubricant.
So use a teflon or silicone spray to lubricate.

Electrical Supplies

It nice to have various electrical supplies and connectors available for you home, car and others projects.  I would recommend picking up an assortment of connectors like this.

Many of these kits come with a wire-stripper and a crimping tool.

If you’re ever in a pinch you’ll be happy to have these DIY Essential Fasteners on hand.

Just one more way you can succeed with speed.

DIY article from: DIYAnswerGuy.com. Don't forget to follow me (@DIYAnswerGuy) on Twitter for more DIY answers. Thanks!

Essential DIY Supplies

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wM7Vp6lQ2fs

I understand the frustration you feel when you want remove something hanging on the wall (book shelf, picture, towel rack, etc.) only to find out that a wall anchor needs removed too.

And, as you probably know, trying to remove that little wall anchor by pulling it out usually leaves a really big hole!

Now your small do-it-yourself project has turned into a large hole patching project too.

You see, most wall anchors are plastic and have barbs that hold them in place. These work quite well but tend to leave big holes in the wall if you try to pull them out.

Well, I have a great little tip for you that will help you easily remove that wall anchor while minimizing the hole to patch.

So here we go.

How to Remove Wall Anchors

Our goal is to cut the face of the anchor off and then push the remaining part of the anchor through the wall.

1. Take a new utility blade and place it flat against the wall just above the anchor face. * BE CAREFUL. Using a utility blade like this can lead to injury. I recommend wearing gloves.
2. Next, slide the blade slowly and carefully behind the face of the anchor.
3. Alternate downward pressure, left to right, on the blade, slowly cutting the anchor face off.
4. Once the anchor face has been cut off, gently push the remaining part of the anchor (that is left inside the hole) into the wall. A small Phillips head screwdriver works well.

Now you have just have a small hole to patch.

Removable Wall Anchors

There is a newer type of wall anchor available to do-it-yourself’ers called EZ Anchor.

These wall anchors come in a variety of sizes and screw directly into the wall.

This is a time-saving benefit for both installing and removing because when you need to remove the anchor, you can simply un-screw it from the wall and patch. You can pick up EZ Anchors at your local home center.

It’s that easy.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Here’s some laser stud finders to help make your next project easier.

Stud Finders

If you can’t find what you’re looking for, click through for more options.

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BD Bulls Eye Auto Leveling Laser Line and Stud finder

49.99

PowerCraft 165 piece Tool Kit

45.99

Zircon MultiScanner i520 OneStep Center Finding Stud Finder

30.00

1

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How to Easily Remove Wall Anchors

I’d like to share a little story with you that involves my neighbor Mike who lives through the woods, right behind my house. He’s not your average retired guy as he always has some kind of do-it-yourself project going on. This time he was looking for an effective solution to insulate his garage workshop.

Just a little background on my friend Mike. He spent 30+ years working as a machinist for the Navy. And Mike wasn’t just any ole machinist, he worked on the nuclear propulsion systems on Submarines and Carriers. Mike’s also a rough and tumble Alaskan gold miner and can build or repair just about anything.

Well, not to long ago, Mike invites me over to talk with him about coming up with a solution for insulating his workshop doors. He says if we use the 1/4 of a brain we each have, we should be able to come up with a solution. Funny guy.

His metal garage workshop doors are a pair of 10 ft. wide x 14 ft. tall flat framed 2x4 doors with sheet metal cladding on the exterior.

The doors also bypass each other to open (clearance between them is only about 1/4 inch) making it difficult to apply standard insulation to the doors.

Well, after some discussion, I recommended using Prodex radiant barrier insulation on his shop doors. This is an excellent insulation material I’ve used on another garage door insulation project.

Since Prodex is only 1/4 in. thick, he simply cut each section of insulation a bit taller than the space between the 2x4’s. That way, the insulation could be stapled to the 2x4 framing as well as siliconed directly to the metal.

Prodex recommends creating an air space to increase the effectiveness of the product, but we didn’t have that option due to the extremely small clearance between the sliding doors. Having said that, an air space was naturally provided by the 50% corrugation of the metal cladding.

Notice that foil tape was applied on all insulation seams.

In the end, the shop doors easily open and look great too. Now, not only is Mike using less energy to heat and cool his workshop but the reflective qualities have improved his garage workshop lighting and created a more comfortable place to work.

So even if you’re a brilliant and resourceful guy like Mike, but still have a question about your project, just ask your personal DIY consultant, and I’ll find the answer to help you succeed with speed.

Here’s a link for more information on Prodex including installation instructions.

Workshop Plans

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DIY Garage Workshop Insulation

The easiest and fastest way to clean tile grout is by using a steam machine, such as the Euro Pro Shark Super Steamer. Just apply steam to the grout, use a toothbrush on any stubborn spots and wipe clean.

You can pick up a steamer for about $40 and they’re also a great way to clean windows, bathroom fixtures, appliances and so much more.

Another time saving tip to help you succeed with speed.

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How to Clean Tile Grout Lines

Do you have a wood screw that’s not holding well? You know, the screws you keep having to tighten in a place where you can’t just use a larger screw.

Not to worry as I have the solution for you.

Here’s How To;

1. Remove the loose screw.
2. Drill the screw hole out to the same size as a golf tee.
3. Put a drop of carpenters glue in the hole.
4. Next, tap the golf tee in the hole and let the glue dry.
5. Cut off the excess tee sticking out. A hack saw blade works great.
6. Re-install a new screw.

Providing solutions to help you succeed with speed.

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How To Fix a Loose Wood Screw

Choosing the best insulation material for your do-it-yourself garage insulation project.

As you know, one of the least energy efficient areas of our homes is the garage, specifically the garage door. Most garage doors are made of aluminum, steel or wood and are usually installed uninsulated. The typical double garage door is 7 ft. x 16 ft. That’s over 100 sq. ft. of uninsulated space. Whether you have a single or double car garage, your uninsulated garage door is allowing heat in during the summer and letting heat escape during the winter.

I’ll bet you’ve probably felt how hot your garage door gets in the summer and how cold it is in the winter. Well this is the sign that it’s time to correct the problem and start reducing your energy bills.

And if your water heater is in the garage, it’s efficiency is affected too. The colder it is in the garage the longer the water heater has to stay on to keep the water temperature constant — which means a higher energy bill.

Since there are several different insulating materials to choose from, it’s not surprising that this is one of the most often asked questions I receive;

“Which insulation material should I use to insulate my garage and water heater?”

Fortunately I have a simple and inexpensive answer as well as a couple of tips to help make your do-it-yourself insulation project a breeze.

So here we go.

Types of Insulation Materials

First let me explain the different kinds of insulation materials available to you.

Spray Foam Insulation

Two part spray foam is very effective but you’ll have to buy a kit ( about $350 for a double garage door ) or hire a professional to perform the work. That makes this material the most expensive choice.

Rigid Foam Insulation

Although Rigid foam is less expensive than spray foam, it’s also a bit less effective due to a lower the R-value — which leads me to what I believe is the best material choice for this do it yourself home insulation project.

Prodex Insulation

Prodex insulation, commonly known as a radiant barrier, is the DIYers best choice for these types of insulation projects because it’s inexpensive, easy to install, and very effective. It also has a built-in bonus I’ll tell you about later.

Prodex Total insulation is only 1/4 inch thick and made of a closed cell foam core covered on both sides with tear resistant foil. This amazing radiant barrier reflects 97% of the heat. It also offers an excellent R-value and is about half the cost of rigid insulation

For about $120 you can easily and simply insulate your garage door and water heater, and immediately begin saving energy.

Tools and Materials

Prodex Total is easy to install with these simple tools;

• Tape measure
• Straight edge (level)
• Utility knife
• Caulking gun
• 100% clear silicone caulk/adhesive
• Foil tape

Garage Door Insulation

Cut the insulation to size and apply it to each garage door section with silicone adhesive. Use foil tape to repair any tears or to cover seams.

You may have noticed the extra bonus I was talking about from the photos — the highly reflective quality of the insulation will instantly brighten your garage. Nice.

Insulating the Water Heater

Since you’re insulating your garage door, go ahead and insulate your water heater too. Remember, even if your water heater is in the house, you can save money by insulating the tank. Use the same radiant barrier insulation to insulate your water heater.

PLEASE be sure to read, understand and follow all safety precautions and procedures when working with, near, or around any gas or electric water heater, or for that matter any appliance. You can also refer to my Insulation Do’s and Don’ts article for more tips.

So, when you’re ready to undertake your do-it-yourself garage insulation project and you’re faced with selecting from multiple insulation materials, I highly recommend Prodex Insulation. It’s a great radiant barrier and can be easily purchased from Insulation4less.com. They also have a garage door insulation kit here.

Save even more money with a DIY Solar Heater Kit

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Garage Door Openers

If you don’t see what you’re looking for, just click through for more options.

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Choosing The Best DIY Garage Insulation Materials

Everyone is looking for ways to save money but saving money implies you have actually have extra money to set aside. For many of us, that’s not the case.

Many of us are just looking for ways to cut costs, spend less money, and just make ends meet. So if you’re anything like me, finding ways to cut costs is a top priority.

One of the easiest ways to cut cost, is to use less energy. And here are a few energy saving tips for doing just that.

So here we go.

Insulate the Following

• Garage door
• Water heater
• Attic
• Water pipes
• Seal around doors and windows

All of these do it yourself projects will help you save money by using less energy.

And here’s a few others you’ve probably heard of too, but these are very simple, easy and inexpensive to implement.

One obvious energy saving technique, which many of us forget at times, is simply turning off lights when they’re not needed.

Outdoor Sensors and Timers

Consider using sensors or timers for outdoor night lights and garages. A motion light will save quite a bit of energy compared to leaving a porch light on all night and be less offensive to the neighborhood. Anyway, it is suppose to be dark at night.

By far, the fastest way to save energy and cut cost is to reduce the amount of power needed to operate the lighting in your home and/or business. The simplest way to accomplish this is to replace incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs.

These energy saving lights have come a long way in the past few years. They’re more efficient and come in almost any size and type you’ll need.

Compact Fluorescent

Compact fluorescent bulbs use less wattage (power) to provide the same amount of light as incandescent bulbs. So changing over just makes sense.

You see, an 18 watt compact fluorescent provides the same amount of light, about 1000 lumen’s, as a standard 60-watt incandescent bulb. So by changing just one bulb you’re using 65% less energy. Make sense now.

For commercial lighting applications that use T12 fluorescent’s, make the change to T8 bulbs. Check for “over lighting” (the number of lights needed to light up a particular area). Also adjust the timer settings on your outdoor lighting (e.g. buildings, landscaping and parking lots).

Check out this energy star site for more information on compact fluorescent’s and fixtures.

DIY’ism: Saving energy creates a better world today.

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your Personal DIY Consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Learn More

DIY Replacement Light Fixtures

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Reduce Your Electric Bill with a Twist of the Wrist

Are you going crazy because of a squeaky spot in the floor or in one of your stair steps? Have you run out of things to try or just don’t know where to begin?

Well here’s another simple do-it-yourself home improvement solution.

This Squeak No More Kit eliminates annoying squeaks quickly and easily.

You can pick up your [amazon ISBN=B0006IK8YE]Squeak No More Kit[/amazon] at Amazon and check out this great how to video demonstration on how to use the kit.

The solutions you need to succeed with speed.

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Silencing Squeaky Floors and Steps

Are you having a problem with the toilet tank sweating and dripping all over the floor? Well don’t feel alone as many people have this irritating problem.

First, the reason your toilet tank sweats is that the water entering the tank has a temperature of around 45 degrees and the room temperature is typically higher. So when the warmer room air comes in contact with the cooler toilet tank the air condenses, causing the tank to sweat and drip on the floor.

To resolve this problem you need to install an anti sweat valve.

The anti sweat valve takes a bit of hot water, from the hot water supply, and mixes it with the cold water supply to the toilet. This increases the temperature of the water in the tank just enough to stop the room air from condensing, thus solving the problem.

Anti sweat valves cost about $20–30 dollars and are easily installed.

DIY Tip: Check out “The Complete Guide to Plumbing” The perfect reference guide for all your DIY plumbing projects. About $17 from Amazon.com Check it out.

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Sweating Toilet Tanks

Having a problem with your stove, refrigerator, washer or dryer? Can’t find the model year, manual or parts? Well here’s a great resource to help you succeed with speed and save money.

These great sites provide you with information like who makes the brand of appliance you own, what model and year it is, parts lists, manuals, users forums (place to ask questions), and much more.

Appliance Information Resources

• Appliance 411
• Appliance Aid

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Appliance Information Resources

If there’s moss, algae or lichen growing on your roof, that growth will shorten the life of your roof. Here’s a simple solution to alleviate the problem.

So here we go.

Mix up a solution of equal parts bleach and water in a garden sprayer. Spray the mixture on the affected areas of the roof. This will kill the moss, algae and lichen.

To greatly reduce these growths from returning, install zinc strips across your roof line. The zinc strips/shield typically comes in 50 foot lengths and run about $55 dollars.

When it rains, the zinc will mix with the rain to form a film of zinc carbonate that will coat the roof, reducing the likely return of these growths.

Here’s one place to get your zinc shield. And a great how-to install zinc strips video.

PS: Copper strips or copper ridge caps will do the same job. They’re just a bit more expensive.

One more do-it-yourself tip to help you succeed with speed.

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How To Remove Moss From Your Roof

Let’s face it, finding a great gift for the do-it-yourselfer in your life is not easy — specially when the hole in your pocket seems to be getting bigger and bigger.

Well, I’d like to help make your gift finding (and buying) a little easier and a whole lot more affordable with this list of 10 useful DIY gifts.

That’s right, each of the following DIY tools cost ten dollars or less. And since most come with Craftsman’s Lifetime Replacement Guarantee, you buy once and own for life. So, no matter what’s happens to the tool, Craftsman (Sears) will replace it for free.

So here we go. Great gift ideas for your Mom, Dad, Grad, Brother, Sister, Aunt or Uncle — even yourself.

10 Incredible DIY Gift Ideas

Stanley’s New DIY Collection:
Plastic Tool box/organizer

18 1/8″ X 13 1/16″ X 3 1/8″


Available at selected Target and Home Depot Stores, about $9

Also, pickup your FREE PDF “The Absolute Essential Tools Every Do-It-Yourselfer Must Own” Free PDF Download. 
This comprehensive 26-page PDF gives you detailed information and prices on 45 of the most versatile do-it-yourself tools — the essential tools you will use the most. Having these tools on-hand can save you time, money and frustration so you too can succeed with speed.

Oh and by the way, these essential hand tools will all fit in the tool box above for easy access and transport.

Craftsman 2 Piece Socket Adapter Set

Connects your drill to your sockets. Great for driving lags and loosening nuts — about $4. Sears.

Craftsman 5–1/2 in. Mini Flat Bar

The mini bar is a great demo tool for getting into small spaces, removing trim and tiles and other breakable items — about $5 at Sears.

Craftsman Torpedo Level

Handy pocket level that you’ll use far more often than your 4 foot level and it fits in your tool box — about $6 at Sears.

Craftsman T-Handle Screwdriver with 2 Double Sided Bits

Indispensable, compact and does it all. Great for the car, boat, motorcycle, bike or with your camping gear — about $8 at Sears.

Craftsman Flat Profile Utility Knife

A must for marking, cutting and most importantly, sharpening your pencil. Easy switch blades and storage — about $8 at Sears.

Craftsman 1/4 in. Speed-Lok^™ Quick Connector

Attach this to your drill to change screwdrivers and drill bits in a snap — about $9 at Sears.

Swanson 7 in. Speed^® Square

Besides being an excellent square, it is a great saw guide, angle finder and so much more. Learn More

Craftsman Professional Wire Cutter-Strippers

A must for tackling any electrical job — about $10 at Sears.

Stanley 100 Pack Replacement Blades

Convenient 100 blade dispenser. A far less expensive way to buy blades — about $8.

Bonus Gift Ideas

If you have a couple extra dollars to spend, here’s three bonus DIY gift ideas for less that $20 bucks.

Craftsman Aluminum Strap Wrench

The most versatile wrench around. Great for opening/closing big and small containers, pipe fittings and pool filters — about $15 at Sears.

Craftsman Linemans Pliers

These pliers are must for any electrical job. They easily twist wires together, cut most electrical wire, are great for mending fences. Also they’re excellent for pulling small nails and staples–about $20 at Sears.

Craftsman Stud Finder

No more knocking, drilling, poking or searching. Find it now with a stud finder. Locates pipes and electrical too — about $20 at Sears.

Ten smart and inexpensive ways to succeed with speed.

Remember, if you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your just ask Personal DIY Consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

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10 Amazingly Useful DIY Gift Ideas For Under $10

When it’s time to take on a DIY electrical project there are some really important tips you should know. Tips that can help you avoid pitfalls before you start, boost your confidence, and save you time and money.

First and most importantly, never take on a do-it-yourself electrical project unless you have a full understanding of what you are about to do. Otherwise please call a licensed electrician.

Remember, the amount of power coming into an average home is easily enough to injure or even kill you.

If you have any doubts about your ability to handle an electrical project, stop, email your questions to me and/or call a licensed electrician.

Having said that, once prepared, you can safely and easily take on an electrical project successfully and save money too. Being patience and methodical will keep you safe and produce great results.

So here we go.

DIYism: Remember, it always takes more time to complete a project if you rush.

DIY Electrical: What NOT to do.

• Don’t strip electrical wiring with your teeth (you may break a tooth). Use wire strippers.
• Don’t use anything other than wire strippers, as you may nick or damage the wire. This can cause increased resistance, breakage or arcing. All bad.
• Don’t trust the labels in your breaker panel unless you were the one that marked each breaker. If you haven’t labeled your breaker box then, for your safety as well as your family and friends, do so now (instruction and circuit breaker labeling kits are available at your local home center or through [amazon ISBN=B0012MIHEG]Amazon.com[/amazon].

DIY Electrical: What you should do.

• Do test the circuit, after you turn the power off, just to be sure.
• Do use a Multimeter to test circuits — it is safe and accurate.(you can learn about multimeters here)
• Do have a flashlight or battery powered lantern handy.
• Do test all switches before beginning work, as there is a chance that a multi-switch box may be controlled by more than one breaker.
• Do tape and label wires, after removing any switches or outlets, as a reminder of where they go. This makes it much easier when reinstalling the switches and outlets. It only takes a minute and is always worth the time (especially with three-way switches).

If you have to run a new circuit from your breaker panel, call a licensed electrician.

Even though I know how to run a new circuit from a breaker panel, I always call my electrician because his experience allows him to see things that I may overlook, thus avoiding any problems and additional cost.

You may also know how to do a particular electrical job but, believe me, it’s money well spent for the piece of mind that a professional brings to the job. Their knowledge and experience will get the job done quickly and correctly the first time.

As I said in the beginning — and this holds true for all DIY projects — do the research so you; understand of the steps involved to complete your DIY project, know the necessary materials and supplies required, have the correct tools, and be aware of any possible pitfalls for your project.

Learn More

If you have questions about your DIY projects just ask your, Personal DIY Consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

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DIY Electrical Precautions

First off I just want to say thanks to everyone for all the great feedback about the The Best DIY Home Improvement Books. Also, thanks for the list of topics you would like me to cover. I’ll do my best to get to as many as possible.

I’ve also received many questions about tool boxes and it just so happens I discovered a fantastic tool box, totally by accident. In fact, I now use this tool box exclusively to carry all my essential hand tools. I just wish I’d found this tool box long ago — it’s the best tool box I’ve owned and would have saved me a lot of money from buying all those other expensive tools boxes.

One more thing, don’t hesitate to tell me what problems you’ve had, or are having, with your DIY projects, as I’ll be happy to offer solutions to help you get your project back on track. Please let me in on your accomplishments too.

Today’s Essential DIY Tip

Are you ready to buy, upgrade, or having a bit of trouble using your current circular saw?

Are you having trouble getting your cuts straight or just feeling a bit uncomfortable with your saw?

Don’t be discouraged because you’re not alone. This is a case where having the right tool for your do-it-yourself project is so important.

Did you know that these saws come in right– and left-hand models? You probably didn’t as this is a little known fact and probably the reason you’re having difficulties using your current saw.

I’m going to show you the differences between these saws and why having the correct saw will make you life easier.

So here we go.

Here is the type of saw used by most right-handed do it yourselfer’s (well most DIY’ers) — but this is a left-handed saw.

If you are anything like me, you probably just picked up or bought a circular saw and starting using it. And with most things, you just became comfortable what you were using. But many of us just can’t seem to get our cuts to come out straight.

Well I’m right-handed and I did the same thing, but then I noticed that some circular saws have the blade on the other side. What is up with this I thought?

So what makes this circular saw a left-handed saw?

When you’re holding the saw in your left–hand you can easily see the cutting line, guide, blade and your work, making it a snap to cut a straight line. But if you are holding the same saw in your right–hand you have to look over the saw to see the cutting line, guide and blade, thus making it quite difficult to see your work — let alone cut a straight line.

So, the solution for us righty’s is a right-handed circular saw, and here it is!

Now with the handle in your right-hand you don’t have to look across your arm and the circular saw to see. The blade, guide, cutting line and your work are easily visible. So cutting that straight line will be a breeze—not to mention safer too.

Recommended Corded Circular Saws

If you’re looking for a new, corded circular saw for your DIY projects, my personal recommendation is one of these two. Both are high quality, right handed circular saws.

1. Milwaukee 6391–21  15 Amp  7–1/4 inch Circular Saw Blade on Left — Tilt-Lok Handle (excellent feature)! Learn More
2. Porter Cable 423 MAG 7–1/4 inch Circular Saw.

Give one of these great circular saws a try and see your skill and confidence improve.

If you have questions about your DIY projects or tools just ask your Personal DIY Consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

Find a great price on other circular saws.

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Circular Saws. Are You a Righty or Lefty?

I’m back with another fantastic DIY tip for you today.

If you’re anything like me I’ll bet you’ve come across a stripped nut or bolt or even stripped a few yourself. It doesn’t get much more frustrating than being stopped by a lousy nut or bolt.

But what’s even worse, you guessed it, banging up your knuckles too. Remember how that felt? Well I sure do.

It usually starts when you try to loosen a nut and ended up stripping it with a lousy or wrong size wrench. Or by trying to tighten a metric nut with a standard socket (or vise-versa).

Like me, you probably have a bunch of various size sockets and wrenches and a tool box or two to store them, and still never seem to have the right tool for the job.

Your collection may even look something like this.

You’ve probably noticed that there are many different sockets and wrenches sets to choose from; 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″, standard, and metric sockets. Open end wrenches, box end wrenches, and ratchet type wrenches. SIx piece sets to 3000+ piece sets, and the list goes on and on.

With so many socket and wrench sets out there, you might ask yourself, “Why so many choices?” The answer is, they sell! Why? Because everyone is looking for the perfect tool set to suit their specific needs.

Believe me, there was a time when I had hundreds of sockets and wrenches, and three tool boxes to store them. Between their cost, the space they took up, the weight to transport them, and the time it took to find the right tool… ARGG!! What a hassle.

But I’m happy to say those days are over!

The Best Socket and Wrench Set

The solution is this 62 piece socket and wrench set, by Metrinch. Believe me, this is going to be the last socket and wrench set you’ll probably ever buy. The 62 piece set usually runs about $150, but prices fluctuate.

First off, both the sockets and wrenches grip the flat sides of the nuts instead of the corners, so no more stripping nuts!

And since they grip the flat sides of the nuts and bolts, the sockets and wrenches work on damaged nuts, and fit both standard or metric.

Now it only takes one set of tools to do the job!

Check out this Metrinch video to see them in action.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AXs_8hetE8

This incredible 62-piece socket and wrench set does it all, and comes in it’s own custom case for convenient transport and storage. And if that not enough they come with a Lifetime International replacement warranty.

Once I tried these sockets and wrenches, I sold my three tool boxes of sockets and wrenches, and made enough money to buy a Metrinch set, and pocket a few bucks. Now that’s a deal!
I’ve owned my Metrinch set for about 15 years and they’re still as good as new.

Believe me, you’ll love these tools!

Here’s what you get

• No slipping means better safety and no more banged up knuckles.
• Fewer tools means less space and a lighter tool box.
• Less tools makes it a easier to find the tool you need.
• Save money by not having to buy two sets of tools or pay ER bills.
• Works on metric, standard and damaged fasteners.
• Includes a cool little two finger ratchet for those small hard to reach jobs.
• Metrinch offers different size sets for the home owner to the professional.
• And if that’s not enough, they have a Lifetime International Replacement Warranty.

This is definitely the last combination tool set you’ll ever buy, and for the price, you can’t go wrong.

Also, if you’re looking for a great gift for your special DIY’er, this will surely do the trick.

NOTE: Individual and combination sets are available in 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch,  and 1/2 inch drive, as well as impact sets.

If you have questions about your DIY projects or what tool to buy, just ask your DIY Consultant.

DIY article from: DIYAnswerGuy.com. Don't forget to follow me (@DIYAnswerGuy) on Twitter for more DIY answers. Thanks!

Socket and Wrench Sets, What’s the Best Buy?

If you recall, I covered the importance of washing machine hose maintenance earlier. If not, please do so as it can save you from costly repairs.

You will need to buy either a pair of rubber or braided 6 foot washer hoses at your hardware or home center (I recommend the braided hoses). Make sure they come with the little rubber washers for each end of the hoses.

You’ll need the following supplies;

• Adjustable pliers
• Teflon tape
• Small bucket
• Couple of rags

Shut off the water

First, shut off the water supply valves to the washing machine (located on the wall behind the washer).

Pull the washing machine away from the wall to gain access to the rear of the machine.

Remove hose from washing machine

Have a small bucket and a towel to catch the water left in the hoses as you remove them from the washing machine. Loosen one of the hoses at the washing machine first and put the end of the hose in the bucket. Next remove the second hose and place it in the bucket so it can drain too.

Remove hoses from wall connections

Now loosen and remove the hoses from the wall connections. Drain the hoses in the bucket and wipe up any spills that usually happen.

Install new washing machine hoses

Now you’re ready to install the new hoses. First make sure the rubber washers are installed in each hose end. Put a couple of wraps of Teflon tape on the wall connections and the washer connections (two to three wraps is good). Notice on the washer it will have a “C” and a “H” next to the connections, this designates Hot and Cold.

Make a note of which is which. When connecting the hoses to the supply valves and to the washer DO NOT over tighten. You are only trying to compress the little rubber washer in the end of the hose to make a good seal. Snug is good (if one of the hoses leak you can tighten them a bit to stop the leak).

Now connect the first hose to the bottom connection of the washer (connections are usually stacked one above the other. If not, connect to either). Now connect the second hose to the washer. Next, connect the hose from the Hot connection of the washer to the left (Hot) connection on the wall supply valve. Then connect the remaining hose to the right (Cold) connection on the wall supply valve.

Turn on the water / check for leaks

Turn on the water at the wall and check for leaks. The best way to check for leaks is to wipe a napkin, paper towel or a tissue over the connections. If there’s a leak, gently tighten the connection. This will stop the leak.

Test washer / final check for leaks

Next, start the washer like you normally would. The washer will start filling with water and purge the air from the lines. Now check the four connections again and make certain there are no leaks. Just let the washer fill for a few seconds and turn it off. To empty the water from the washer, set the cycle to spin and let the washer run till it shuts down.

One last thing, clean up and you’re finished! Congratulations!

DIY Tip: Check out “The Complete Guide to Plumbing“

The perfect reference guide for all your DIY plumbing projects.

About $17 from Amazon.com Go to store

If you have questions about your DIY projects, just ask your personal DIY consultant. I’m here to help you succeed with speed.

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DIY article from: DIYAnswerGuy.com. Don't forget to follow me (@DIYAnswerGuy) on Twitter for more DIY answers. Thanks!

How to Replace a Washing Machine Hose